Our home between 1894 and 1900 was the old Palazzo Accoramboni, or, as
we called it, the Palazzo Rusticucci. The agent who let us our apartment
was an ignorant man, and when we asked the name of the palace he told
us it was the Rusticucci. It was only after we had had the name engraved
upon our note paper and visiting cards, and had lived there two years,
that Crawford told us of our mistake. It seemed too late to correct it,
so we kept the name, and now it is a source of satisfaction to me to
remember that we are the only people who ever lived in Palazzo
Rusticucci! The quarter, properly called the Leonine City, is more
familiarly spoken of as the Borgo, and is inhabited chiefly by people
connected with the Vatican. Our apartment was both picturesque and
comfortable. Our terrace, transformed by J. into a sort of hanging
garden of Babylon, where we cut roses every month of the year, became
one of the sights of Rome, and strangers often rang our doorbell and
asked to see it.
Rome is the most hospitable place I have ever known. From the time of
the Empire the chief business of the city has been to entertain
strangers; it never had any other business and it has never lost the
habit of making strangers feel at home. The society is most amusing, for
one only has to “sit tight” and sooner or later every important
personage in the world passes your way!
[To my Mother.]
July 5, 1894. Yesterday the Ambassador gave a Fourth of July
reception with lots of champagne, American flags and a band playing
the Star Spangled Banner. There were one hundred and ten Americans
present, so you see we are not the only ones left in Rome. I am
brisk and well. If one has to be in any city in summer, Rome is the
best. Tuesday night Mariano Benlliure came to dine. He is called
the first living Spanish sculptor. He has a strong dash of the
Moor, as his genius and his name show; all the Bens are of Moorish
descent. We also had Mrs. Taylor, a clever newspaper woman,
correspondent of the _London Standard_, sister of Mrs. Augustus
Trollope, and Joe Hunt. He has grown a beard and is not quite so
cherubic.
I have had two bright letters from William Henry Hurlburt, who is
at Cadennabbia on the Lake of Como. He wrote for homeopathic
medicines which I sent him. The poor old fellow isn’t long for this
world. He has an insight into spiritual truths as keen and as fine
as when he was an associate of the Transcendentalists at Cambridge;
one hears he has another side, but I have never seen it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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