Dr. Munthe is a remarkable man. His patients, who often occupy the
Foresteria, are mostly the rich and great of every land, with at
least one royalty among them. He is a sort of overlord to the
peasants, scolds them, tends them when they are ill, settles their
disputes, in fine, acts the part of a benevolent despot. He has
made some excavations with rich finds. You remember that Tiberius
lived here and there were many sumptuous villas in the Capri of his
time.
To call on C. C. Coleman. He spoke much of Kate Field, whom he
greatly admired. Called on Captain Butler and saw his wife, the
daughter of my old friend Anna, the guide of the Villa of
“Timberio.” She has traces of the great beauty J. remembers,
splendid teeth and eyes. Butler, who lost an arm in the Civil War,
was a landscape and animal painter. After the loss of the right
hand he had to learn to work with his left, and took up portrait
painting, in which he is very successful. His attitude towards his
wife was tender and chivalrous. The couple interested me deeply.
They have a daughter and three sons, one a famous football player.
They were living in a house they had taken near the pretty cottage
Butler gave Anna. They gave me a glass of Capri wine, a present
from the husband of Mrs. B.’s godchild. This relationship seems to
be especially considered here. A godchild is a member of its
_madrina’s_ family. Mrs. Butler said she preferred the United
States to Capri (they have a farm in New Jersey), but that “out
there” she “missed the flowers.” I don’t wonder. The wonderful
broom is ablaze, passion flowers such as I never dreamed of clasp
and curl about every gate and pergola. The lovely myrtle is in
bloom. The island is starred with wild flowers, many quite new to
me.
To-day I enjoyed a sea bath at the Marina Grande, driving down from
Anacapri. It was so like Newport, the cool blue water so very
native, that I felt a little homesick. Tea at the Quisisana, a
delightful hotel but expensive. The moon, a blood-red crescent,
made a splendid descent behind the Sorrentine Peninsula. We watched
it set from the balcony outside our room. The Bay of Naples was a
pale turquoise, the sky old-rose color. The people here are as
beautiful as tradition holds--the handsomest I ever saw.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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