Three gringos in Venezuela and Central AmericaDavis, Richard Harding
General
Three gringos in Venezuela and Central America
Davis, Richard Harding
Central America -- Description and travel; Louisiana State Lottery Company; Venezuela -- Description and travel
There was but one cool spot in Amapala; it was a point of land that
the inhabitants had rather tactlessly selected as a dumping-ground
for the refuse of the town, and which was only visited by pigs and
buzzards. This point of land ran out into the bay, and there had once
been an attempt made to turn it into a public park, of which nothing
now remains but a statue to Morazan, the Liberator of Honduras. The
statue stood on a pedestal of four broad steps, surrounded by an iron
railing, the gates of which had fallen from their hinges, and lay
scattered over the piles of dust and débris under which the park is
buried. At each corner of the railing there were beautiful macaws which
had once been painted in brilliant reds and greens and yellows, and
which we tried to carry off one night, until we found that they also
were made of iron. We would have preferred the statue of Morazan as a
souvenir, but that we doubted its identity. Morazan was a smooth-faced
man with a bushy head of hair, and this statue showed him with long
side-whiskers and a bald head, and in the uniform of an English
admiral. It was probably the rejected work of some English sculptor,
and had been obtained, no doubt, at a moderate price, and as very few
remember Morazan to-day it answers its purpose excellently well. We
became very much attached to it, and used to burn incense to it in the
form of many Honduranian cigars, which sell at two cents apiece.
When night came on, and the billiard-room had grown so hot that the
cues slipped in our hands, and the tantalizing sight of an American
ice-cooler, which had never held ice since it left San Francisco,
had driven us out into the night, we would group ourselves at the
base of this statue to Morazan, and throw rocks at the buzzards and
pigs, and let the only breeze that dares to pass over Amapala bring
our temperature down to normal. We should have plotted a revolution
by rights, for the scene was set for such a purpose, and no one in
the town accounted in any other way for our climbing the broken iron
railing nightly, and remaining on the steps of the pedestal until two
the next morning.
Amapala, I suppose, was used to heat, and could sleep with the
thermometer at ninety, and did not mind the pigs or the buzzards, and
if we did plot to convert Honduras into a monarchy and make Somerset
king, no one heard us but the English edition of Morazan smiling
blandly down upon us like a floor-walker at the Army and Navy Stores,
with his hand on his heart and an occasional buzzard soaring like
Poe’s raven above his marble forehead. The moonlight turned him into a
figure of snow, and the great palms above bent and waved and shivered
unceasingly, and the sea beat on the rocks at our feet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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