One little house we entered was very clean and neat, but the rooms
were too dark and too small, and too many people lived in the house.
We were told that this specimen was very much above the average. In
every room was an ikon, and in every village a church, crowded with
worshippers, filled with expensive things. Truly, the Commissars would
be well advised to commandeer and not condemn the institution which has
so great a grip on the lives and affections of the people.
I am reminded here of a curious and beautiful adventure of ours, a
few versts on this side of Astrakhan. It was two in the morning, with
a bright round moon in the sky, when the ship stopped and boats were
lowered. A violin softly played, and the crooning of their Volga songs
by the boatmen added charm to the scene. We took to the boat and landed
on the right bank of the river. Millions of crickets chirped in the
grass. In the distance a bullfrog croaked himself hoarse. Suddenly
there came upon our view the outlines of an Eastern building. Its
cupola shone in the moonlight. It was a Buddhist temple.
We marched up to the door and entered, much to the concern of the
priest, who feared, doubtless, a revolutionary attack upon his person
and the church. He was a quaint old man, round and stout, dressed in a
bright red robe, his good-natured, Chinese-looking face adding to the
novelty of the scene. He was a Kalmuk, and his ministry extended over
a population of ten thousand Kalmuks, living in the little town beyond.
It was an amazing thing to discover this little bit of Asia in Europe.
The Kalmuks are an attractive race in appearance, clean, strong and
efficient-looking. The women have glossy black hair which they wear
neatly in two braids. Their children are chubby and well fed, with
slanting brown eyes and olive skins. We left this temple and its people
possessed of several tiny brass gods and holy pictures with which the
priest appeared not unwilling to part.
At Samara some of us went to inspect a children’s colony outside the
town. As usual, it was the expropriated dwelling of a former rich
citizen. Indeed, several houses were devoted to this good purpose. The
woman Communist who kindly conducted us had all the smiling good nature
of her race. She was evidently devoted to the children, and proud of
what had been accomplished. She was obviously in great need of new
clothes. Her legs were bare. One poor sock was falling over her shoe
top. The naked toes were peeping out of the other shoe. Her jacket was
the last word in shabbiness. Yet she was bright and cheerful as a bird
and infinitely pathetic as she asked me, with pride in her voice: “Have
you anything like this (meaning the summer school) in England?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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