Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
Thus we returned victoriously to our inn, where we were met by our host,
who had been expecting us for dinner for some time, with the expressive
question ‘Eingesperrt?’ (‘Locked up?’) ‘Eingesperrt!’ said I. ‘So was my
waiter a day or two ago,’ continued our host. ‘What for?’ we demanded.
‘Ah! that I cannot tell you.’ ‘The fellow ought to be shot!’ chimed in
the aggrieved waiter. It appeared that the Commissär was a petty tyrant
in the place, and our successful stand against his insolence created
everywhere in Brood the liveliest sensations of delight. But why should
the Brooders have left it to stray Englishmen to beard their despot?
and which is the viler, the people who knock under to such arbitrary
treatment, or the government which delegates to its officials the license
to abuse the personal liberties of its subjects? This is not the first
time that, for an equally paltry charge, I have seen the inside of an
Austro-Hungarian prison. The free life of the great cities of the empire
deceives those foreigners whose observations have been confined to the
_Prater_; what ought to be realised is, that while London in a sense
extends all over England, Pest and Vienna are bounded by their suburbs.
The truth is, that the Metternichian régime has not died out entirely
in the country districts. But when, as I believe was the case in this
instance, the traditions of the ‘Police-State’ are followed out by
Magyar—or at least _Magyarizing_—officials, there is less excuse for such
conduct, and the Hungarians should be warned that, by setting up an alien
and oppressive bureaucracy in their Sclavonic Provinces they are not
likely to retain the high opinion which their noble stand against similar
tyranny has won for them among Englishmen.
[Illustration: Head of Sclavonian.]
CHAPTER III.
THROUGH THE BOSNIAN POSSÁVINA AND USSORA.
Insurrectionary Agitation among Southern Sclaves—Proclamation
of the Pashà of Bosnia—We land in Turkish Brood—Moslem
Children—Interview with the Mudìr—Behaviour of our
Zaptieh—Peasants of Greek Church—How these Christians love
one another—Arrive at Dervent—Interview with Pashà of
Banjaluka—Hajduks’ Graves—Rayah Hovel—Difficulty with our
Host—Doboj; its old Castle and Historical Associations—A
South Sclavonic Patriot—First Mountain Panorama—The ‘Old
Stones,’ a prehistoric Monument—Tešanj: its old Castle and
History—‘_Une Petite Guerre_’—Latin Quarter of Tešanj—Soused
by an old Woman—Influence of Oriental Superstitions on Bosnian
Rayahs—Argument with the Kaïmakàm—Excusable Suspicions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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