Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
When our observers had taken sufficient stock of us, the propriety of
showing us into an upper room of the Konak suggested itself to some of
them, and we were accordingly led upstairs, and invited to squat in a den
belonging to some subordinate official, who, while waiting the Mudìr’s
arrival, treated us to coffee. It was a very dirty little room, in which
the rags and tatters of an old piece of faded carpet and rotten matting
made shift for chairs and sofas; these, with a stove such as has been
described already, pigeon-holed with pots, and a broken water-jar,
completing the inventory of the furniture. After a tedious delay, during
which we supposed the worthy præfect to be at his mid-day prayers, or
more probably his siesta, the Mudìr arrived, and we were ushered into
his room of state, distinguished from that of his sub. by containing a
larger area of dirt, and by displaying a larger piece of carpet with a
more capacious patch, but also by possessing a greasy divan on which we
were beckoned by the Mudìr to take our seat by his side. Our official
had turned out in grey clothes of European cut, and a regulation fez;
but as he could only speak Turkish, Arabic, and Bosniac, and as we
could none of these, an interpreter had to be found in the shape of an
Italian-speaking Dalmatian woman before we could hold much communication.
The Mudìr was well satisfied with our Bujuruldu; but when we expressed
our determination to walk through the country, he was fairly taken aback.
It was evidently a case which had never before come within his official
experience. There was no precedent for such conduct. Nobody, he assured
us, ever thought of travelling on foot in Bosnia; if we wanted a horse
or a waggon, he was ready to oblige—but to walk! We had to explain that
walking was a weakness of English people; and at last, as I think the
good man began to believe that it was connected with our religion, and
that we were pilgrims of some sort, he gave over trying to convert us
to the Bosnian way of thinking, and told off a Zaptieh to escort us to
our that day’s destination, Dervent. Our attempts to rid ourselves from
having this encumbrance failed, as the autograph letter of the Pashà made
him responsible for our safety.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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