Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
As we were preparing to begin our descent from these uplands towards
Tešanj, some large white objects amongst the heather on a neighbouring
hill caught our eye, which, on investigation, we found to belong to a
curious prehistoric monument of the kind popularly known as Druidic. It
was an alignment of large oblong blocks along the neck of the hill; but
the stones, unlike those of Stonehenge or Carnac, were laid on their
faces, and not set upright. The blocks, which were composed of limestone
and conglomerate, had in most cases been roughly squared, and the largest
measured seven feet by four. The chain extended between two knolls of
the hill-top, and on looking along it from the lowest of these (see
diagram, p. 112), it presented a wavy and serpentine appearance, which
may have been due to the slight inequalities of the soil. At one point
near this end rose a small hillock capped by a larger than ordinary
block of snow-white limestone, in form hexangular, and with some of the
facets deftly hewn (see diagram). Before this on either side were two
smaller and flatter slabs of rock, arranged apparently with some special
reference to the block between them, and which gave me the impression
that it had been meant to serve as an altar; though whether these stones
were set here by heathen Sclaves or by one of the earlier races of
Illyria, and with what object, it would be hazardous to conjecture. By
the peasants about they are known as the Old Stones—Stari Stéona.
[Illustration: The ‘Old Stones,’ near Tešanj.]
Nearing Tešanj we came upon, and partly followed, the remains of an
ancient road, roughly paved in such an antique fashion as to remind me
of the streets from time to time exhumed on the sites of Roman towns.
Perhaps it really in some way represented the continuity of Roman
engineering. Certain it is that the wooden bridges, such as the one
on which we crossed the Ussora, and others that we were afterwards to
meet with, with their beam-work arches and supports and their lattice
railings, strangely recalled some of Trajan’s handicraft. The Bosnian
waggons—not so unlike, either, in form, the _gementia plaustra_ of
antiquity—as they rumble along the old-world roads and bridges, with
creaking so loud and stridulous as literally to make woods and rocks
re-echo with their wailing, bring before you another feature in the
country life of classic times, which in the England of to-day it is hard
to realise. With such discord piercing your ears, there seems new point
in those exquisite lines of Martial which describe his friend’s garden as
not too near the highway—‘ne blando rota sit molesta somno.’[173] Heard
from afar the sound is not so unpleasant, and might be mistaken for the
plaintive whistling of the wind; but if any one wants to know what it is
like at close quarters, he had better tweak a young pig’s tail and listen.
[Illustration: Castle of Tešanj.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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