Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
It is unfortunate that I am unable to conclude the account of this—to
me—uniquely interesting night with the mention of songs and ballads, and
that more must be added which it is most displeasing to relate.
It is only just to say that, taking into consideration the troubles
in the Herzegovina, and—what may have been traceable in the hurried
calling-out of the reserve at Dervent and Tešanj—the possible
foreknowledge of the imminence of an outbreak in Bosnia, it was quite
natural for the Turkish authorities to view with suspicion an assemblage
of several thousand Christian Bosniacs, and even to take precautionary
measures against any disturbances—or conspiracy. No one can therefore
blame the Kaïmakàm of Tešanj for despatching some officials and a
retinue of gendarmes to watch the proceedings. This night the Turks
had taken their station at the end of the neck of the hill, as if the
better to ward off any possible attack, and to secure a line of retreat
if necessary. The presence of these Zaptiehs gave me an opportunity of
observing how these tools of the Mahometan government dealt with the
Christian Bosniacs, when not under the immediate surveillance of foreign
consuls. Briefly, they treated them like a herd of cattle; and it is hard
to say which was the more revolting, the intolerable insolence or the
downright cruelty.
I was standing in one of the circles where a Bosnian gleeman was
rehearsing a national epic, when the spell of the song was rudely broken
by a Zaptieh, who, bursting through the ring of listeners and thrusting
the rayahs to right and left, stood before the embers in the middle, and,
playing with his cutlass with one hand, demanded, in such a savage tone
as quite infuriated me, who would light his pipe. The Bosniacs took it
more calmly. The old minstrel laid down his lute and paused for awhile in
his lay. For a few moments there was a moody silence—as if some blunted
sense of injury had outlived long use of wrongs—then a fine man stepped
forward sheepishly and lit the bully’s pipe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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