Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
The woman seated on the middle of the trunk is representative of the
ordinary Latin peasants hereabouts, the red border of her jacket being
probably an ensign of her Catholicism as near Dervent. The rest of the
jacket is black, contrasting with the clean white tunic below; but the
general effect would be funereal were it not for her apron, which is of
as divers colours as Joseph’s coat, and displays those diamond patterns
so much affected by the peasants near Belgrade. The twin brooches on
her belt may remind the antiquary of those worn by our Anglo-Saxon
great-grandmothers, or of such as are exhumed from old Serbian graves,
and the silver work of her ear-rings is doubtless an inheritance from
Byzantium.
The standing figure to her left belongs to a very curious type both of
feature and costume. This was the first occasion on which we came upon a
dress the affinities of which were other than Serbian or Croatian. The
multitude of decoration is overpowering. She is studded with Turkish
coins as with a cuirass of scale armour, her arms loaded with bracelets,
and her fingers with rings; ornamental patterns are crowded over her
jacket and apron,—a gorgeous orange being the pervading colour. Her hair
was spangled with coins in a way which we afterwards saw repeated among
the unveiled Mahometan women of the Narenta valley. There was a certain
heaviness about the dress which contrasted with the lighter costumes
around; it belonged to the general class of Bosnian costume extending
west and south towards Dalmatia and the Herzegovinian frontier. Its
_nuances_ are decidedly Dalmatian. As we crossed the mountains towards
Travnik we came upon more specimens of this type; and in the gorges of
Troghìr and Mazulia were again struck by the curious stamp of features,
which in these mountains seems always to accompany this peculiar attire.
The broad face and flat nose suggest quite a different parentage, and
I noticed brothers and husbands who showed that the peculiarity was
not confined to one sex. I remember one man in particular with nose so
curiously flattened that one was almost tempted to believe that his
profile had been deformed by a bandage drawn tightly across the face
in childhood, after the old Hunnish fashion, and went on to speculate
whether some of the followers of Attila, or perchance some of those
Tartars who flooded Bosnia in the thirteenth century, might not have been
caught in these mountain basins. But this much is certain, that at the
present day these gorgeous barbarians speak Bosniac like their neighbours.
To the left of our Hunnish friend sits a woman in the most civilized
costume of Christian Bosnia, and which, with peculiarities of its own, is
eminently Serbian, of the Danube, and will recall the maiden of Tešanj.
Here, however, besides the hair plaited round a tasselled fez, and the
scarf crossed X-wise over the bosom, is the expanding skirt and the
fur-bordered jacket, such as the ladies of Belgrade delight in wearing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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