Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
For we are again immersed in the primeval forest—and night seems nearer
and shelter further. The sun was already setting, when a gap in the
trees revealed to us a mountain vista, which showed that we were on the
wrong side of the ridge. A woodman whom we presently met told us that we
were going towards Zenica instead of Travnik, and we discovered that we
were on the debatable mountain neck, between the Vučia and Gorcevica
Planinas. The woodman intimated to us that to strike across and attempt
to regain the Travnik path was hopeless, and that we had better follow
the ridge in the direction of Zenica. But we made up our minds to cut
across and follow the valley of a stream which led in our direction.
Accordingly we crossed over to the western side of our ridge, and found
ourselves on the brink of an almost precipitous steep, descending to the
Jasenica, our desired stream, heard but not seen, thirteen hundred feet
below.
The mean angle at which this slope descended was, as nearly as we could
calculate, 60°. Had it been bare, we could not possibly have descended
it, laden as we were; but it was covered with beech-trees, which might
stop us if we fell; so we resolved to attempt a descent.
It was certainly very difficult work; the beech-leaves made it slippery,
and concealed rocks and boughs would trip us up, or a piece of soil give
way. We were perpetually dislodging fragments of rock, which rolled and
leapt down, quicker and quicker, crash after crash, cannoning against
the trunks, taking bigger and bigger bounds, till a final plunge told
us that they had reached the stream. They never lodged half way. Every
now and then we seemed likely to follow them, but we always succeeded in
arresting our fall by clutching at a passing trunk. It grew darker and
darker; but we still kept on at our painful task, till, about six hundred
feet down, I broke one of my knapsack straps in a tumble, and it being
impossible in such a position either to mend it or to carry it, we were
lucky in discovering, close by, a hollow—formed by the uprooting of a
forest giant—to serve as sleeping-quarters for our third night running,
_sub Jove frigido_, and where we literally _lodged_ till peep-o’-day.
The worst was that we were unable to collect fuel for a fire, and before
morning a chill breeze sprang up, and the thermometer sank almost to
freezing point; for, in less mountainous localities than this, August
frosts are by no means rare in Bosnia. For nocturnal visitors we might
take our choice—as the wind invented footsteps—of the wild swine, bears,
and wolves, that inhabit these mountains; but none of these fourfooted
gentry molested us; and, except that once or twice we woke with the cold,
or by reason of sundry stones and awkward tags of root, which would keep
running into us, we slept soundly enough.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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