Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
Next morning we discovered to our sincere pleasure that our Zaptieh had
levanted, so that we had less difficulty than we anticipated in adhering
to our original itinerary and defying the Travnik authorities. We drove a
few miles further on the Serajevo road in our waggon, and then, stopping
at a roadside Han, informed our driver that we had no further need of his
services. He seemed at first considerably taken aback at this _coup_, but
as we gave him all that was his due had he carried us to the capital, we
left him well satisfied. Our next care was to secure a guide over the
mountains to Foinica, nor were we long in finding a peasant willing to
conduct us. He only asked us to excuse him a few minutes, and presently
returned with a serviceable cutlass—rather an ominous beginning to our
mountain journey! Our way ran along a gradually ascending footpath
winding over the undulations of the Zahorina Planina, and through beechy
defiles—the trees not indeed so fine as those of Troghìr and Mazulia
Planina, but very beautiful. The flowers and ferns were much the same
as we had seen before, but the beech-fern now for the first time became
plentiful, and so surpassing rich were the tufts of male fern that
we seemed to be passing through a gigantic fernery. Now and then we
emerged on glades and a few scattered fields, with huts surrounded by
fruit-trees, and there were plenty of wild walnut-trees on the mountain
itself.
As we ascended the main ridge we detected the first sign of the wealth
stored up in the bowels of the mountain, from the mineral taste of the
springs; and as we began to descend the southern slopes, the same cause
seemed to blight the growth of beech and oak, and in some parts the
mountain-side showed bare, while streaks of mica rock glittered like
silver in the sunshine. The soil itself from a pale brown took rich
ochreous hues, so that the range was not without its golden streaks as
well. Here and there our path was strewn with bits of crystalline quartz,
and we picked up pieces of iron, lead, and even—we believe—silver ore;
and here and there fragments of noble crystals. At the summit our guide
had left us, and a steep and rough descent brought us to the village of
Foinica.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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