Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
One cannot wonder that Coinica was chosen as the meeting-place of the
lords spiritual and temporal of Christian Bosnia. The situation on the
one pass which connects the heart of Bosnia and her present capital with
the duchy, and the magnificent bridge which here spans the Narenta,
make it the key to the Herzegovina; and even the Turks have shown
themselves so alive to its strategic importance that on the outbreak of
the insurrection one of the first cares of the government was to secure
the position by posting here a division of troops, whose tents we now
descried on a height above the Narenta, as—after a short and satisfactory
audience with the Kaïmakàm, whom we interviewed in a house which he was
building on the Bosnian shore—we crossed the bridge, and, entering
Coinica, find ourselves in the old duchy of St. Sava.
Here, after some difficulty, we have discovered a Han—or rather a loft
above a stable—and the attendance is certainly in keeping with the
place! We are waited on by a turbaned youth, who is a very good specimen
of the untutored savage, as he exists in Bosnia at the present day. He
comes into our room and gapes at us while we are eating; he takes up
our scrap of wheaten bread—a _bonne-bouche_ which we had brought with
us from Serajevo—and fingers it complacently. When we ask for water,
this child of nature snatches up the pitcher, and before handing it to
us takes a good pull at the spout himself! Since then he has stared at
us persistently, with interludes of spitting about the floor. We have
hinted in every possible way that he is _de trop_—but to hints our young
barbarian shows himself quite unapproachable—till at last all our respect
for the sanctity of a host fairly breaks down, and we rid ourselves of
our incubus by the magic word _Haiti_!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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