Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
The Belgian engineer, who had been kindly told by consular agency to look
out for us, received us with open arms, and hospitably offered us the
shelter of his tent for the night. He told us, as a good illustration of
Turkish _laisser-aller_, that the bridge, which had been brought here at
a large expense from England, had lain for two years on the river bank
without being set up. At last the outbreak of the insurrection harshly
aroused the authorities to a sense of their negligence; and now the work
has to be pushed on with the greatest hurry imaginable, as the bridge is
becoming every day more indispensable for the transport of cannon and
other heavy munitions and supplies into the Herzegovina. The workmen
employed are only Mahometans, but there are some booths hard-by for
the sale of raki and provisions, kept by a small Christian colony. The
Belgian himself lodged at the Mahometan village of Jablanica, a little
further down the valley, whither we presently accompanied him to accept
of his hospitable shelter.
As we were walking towards this our engineer pointed to a part of a
maize-plot on the roadside to the right, where the maize was slightly
trodden down. ‘Do you see that?’ he asked; ‘perhaps you would like to
know how the maize got trodden down there?’
He then recounted to us the following narrative, which, coming from an
eye-witness, served to enlighten us considerably as to the amenities of
Turkish rule.
It must be prefaced that at the present time no one can go from one
village to another without being provided with a _teskeri_ or Turkish
pass, and that it was one of the functions of the Belgian engineer,
as head of the Road Commission, to examine and set his _visé_ on
the _teskeris_ of all who passed along this road. A few days ago a
young Herzegovinian Christian—a fine young fellow, according to the
Belgian—stopped at his tent and showed his pass, which proved to be
quite _en règle_, and was _visé’d_ by the engineer accordingly. He then
proceeded on his way with a light heart, but as he was passing by the
booths which I have mentioned near the bridge, two Turks—not officials
or soldiers of any kind, but armed nevertheless—came up and insolently
demanded to see his _teskeri_. This they had not a shadow of a right to
ask for; but the young fellow, knowing that in this country might is
right, did not hesitate to comply, and handed his _teskeri_ for their
examination. Thereupon the two Mahometans, who could not read a syllable,
swore that the whole thing was wrong, and seizing hold of the young rayah
began to drag him along, crying out to the Christians at the booths that
they were taking him off to the Road Commission.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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