Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
The prospect for some smooth sailing now appeared favourable, but scarcely
had I made myself comfortable, lying down in my prahu, before I was
drenched by furious waves into which we had plunged. We soon got out of
them, however, and continued our swift travel downward. In the distance
most of our prahus could be seen in a calm inlet on the other side, where
Mr. Loing was awaiting our arrival; but my men continued on their course.
In a few seconds we entered the boiling waves of the rapids, down which we
went at thrilling speed. We literally jumped a small waterfall, then,
sharply turning to the left, passed another. More than a third of the boat
was in the air as we leaped over it. The Dayaks stand in the prahu and
every nerve is at full tension. The man at the bow shouts and warns. They
are daring, but manage to avoid the hidden rocks with which the course of
the river is studded, now steering slightly to the left, now more to the
right. Thirty or fifty centimetres one way or the other may make all the
difference between safety and disaster. Three men in a small prahu which
follows immediately behind, seeing that they cannot avoid dashing against
a rock, jump overboard, pull the boat out of its course, and save it.
Ahead was another turn in the river where the third kiham in succession
awaited us, and after some moments of comparative quiet we again dashed
down into turbulent waves, and making a swift turn to the right on a
downward grade glided into smoother waters. The excitement was over and
the experience had been as delightful as it was unexpected. It reminded
one of tobogganing in Norway and was great fun, although the enjoyment was
always mingled with feelings of anxiety concerning the cameras and
instruments.
The luggage was unloaded from the prahus which were waiting at the head of
the last rapids, and was carried on the backs of natives who afterward
took the empty boats down. Although the men had worked incessantly for
nine hours, on the advice of the chief it was decided to proceed to
Samariting, the first Penihing kampong. Half the goods was stored near the
beach, to be called for the following day, and the now comfortably loaded
prahus made ready for the descent of the next rapids, which he said were
risky. He therefore was going to walk himself and advised us to do
likewise. Rain began to fall. On the high river bank I waited to see them
off. The first prahu had to return and take another course; the men all
seemed to be hesitating. Finally it made a fresh dash forward. Near the
end of the long rapids it almost disappeared from view, appeared again,
steering first to right then rapidly to left again. There was the
dangerous place, and having in this manner seen most of them pass
successfully, I walked on and shortly afterward boarded my prahu, which
carried us swiftly down to Samariting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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