Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
It was quite agreeable to see a flag again, the symbol of the Dutch nation
being hoisted every day on the hill where the military encampment was
located, usually called benting (fortress). Even the striking of a bell
every half-hour seemed acceptable as a reminder of civilisation. The
soldiers were natives, mostly Javanese. The lieutenant, Th. F.J. Metsers,
was an amiable and courteous man who loaned me Dutch newspapers, which,
though naturally months out of date, nevertheless were much appreciated.
We were about 1° north of equator and usually had beautiful, clear nights
in the month of May. The Great Bear of the northern hemisphere was visible
above the horizon and the planet Venus looked large and impressive. There
were no mosquitoes and the air was fine, but at times the heat of the day
was considerable, especially before showers. After two days of very warm
weather without rain ominous dark clouds gathered in the west, and half an
hour later we were in the thick of a downpour and mist which looked as if
it might continue for days. But in inland Borneo one knows a rainstorm
will soon belong to the past. Two hours later the storm abated and before
sunset all was over, and the night came again clear and glorious.
One afternoon seven prahus with thirty-odd Dayaks were seen to arrive from
down the river, poling their way. They were Kayans from Long Blu, en route
for the Upper Kasao to gather rattan. Some of them called on me and
evidently already knew of the expedition. They carried only rice as
provisions and told me they intended to be away three months. On the Upper
Kasao there is no more rubber to be found, and, according to them, on the
upper part of Mahakam there is no more rattan.
The Penihings of Long Kai are good-natured and pleasant, and it was
refreshing to be among real, natural people to whom it never occurs that
nudity is cause for shame; whom the teaching of the Mohammedan Malays, of
covering the upper body, has not yet reached. This unconsciousness of evil
made even the old, hard-working women attractive. They were eager to sell
me their wares and implements, and hardly left me time to eat. Their
houses had good galleries and were more spacious than one would suppose
from a casual glance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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