Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
What with making light shelters against sun and rain, in Malay called
atap, usually erected for long journeys, the placing of split bamboo
sticks in the bottom of my prahu, and with the Penihings evidently
unaccustomed to such work, it was eight o'clock before the start was made.
Pani, a small tributary forming the boundary between the Penihings and the
Kayans, was soon left behind and two hours later we passed Long Blu, the
great Kayan kampong. The weather was superb and the current carried us
swiftly along. The great Mahakam River presented several fine, extensive
views, with hills on either side, thick white clouds moving slowly over
the blue sky. As soon as we entered the country of the Oma-Suling it was
pleasant to observe that the humble cottages of the ladangs had finely
carved wooden ornaments standing out from each gable.
We arrived at Long Pahangei (_h_ pronounced as Spanish jota) early in the
afternoon. Gongs were sounding, but very few people were there, and no
visitors at all, although this was the first day of the feast. This is a
large kampong lying at the mouth of a tributary of the same name, and is
the residence of a native district kapala. After I had searched everywhere
for a quiet spot he showed me a location in a clump of jungle along the
river bank which, when cleared, made a suitable place for my tent. Our
Penihings were all eager to help, some clearing the jungle, others
bringing up the goods as well as cutting poles and bamboo sticks.
Evidently they enjoyed the work, pitching into it with much gusto and
interest. The result was a nice though limited camping place on a narrow
ridge, and I gave each man one stick of tobacco as extra payment.
During our stay here much rain fell in steady downpours lasting a night or
half a day. As the same condition existed higher up the river, at times
the water rose menacingly near my tent, and for one night I had to move
away. But rain in these tropics is never merciless, it seems to me. Back
from the coast there is seldom any wind, and in the knowledge that at any
time the clouds may give place to brilliant sunshine, it is not at all
depressing. Of course it is better to avoid getting wet through, but when
this occurs little concern is felt, because one's clothing dries so
quickly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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