Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
An hour later the coolies wanted to cook rice. It did not take long to
discover that they were not very useful, though the clerk had done his
best. Two brothers were intolerably lazy, continually resting the paddles,
lighting cigarettes, washing their faces, etc., the elder, after the full
meal they had eaten, actually falling asleep at times. The interest of the
men centred in eating and early camping, and we made slow progress,
detained besides by a thunder-storm, as it was impossible to make headway
against the strong wind. The man at the helm of the small prahu was
intelligent, and from him I finally obtained information about a place to
stop for the night.
At six o'clock we arrived at the mouth of the Kuala Sampit, where we found
it difficult to effect a landing on account of the dilapidated condition
of the landing-float. Some distance from the water stood a lonely house,
in genuine Malay style, with high-gabled roof. The stairs afforded
precarious access, a condition which may have been regarded as a
protection, but more likely it was due to laziness and want of care.
However that may have been, the interior was surprisingly substantial,
with an excellent floor like that in a ballroom. I slept in a detached
ramshackle room used as a kitchen, comfortable because of being open to
the air.
In the morning the Malays were again too late. I was ready for a start at
six o'clock, but about that time they began to cook. The small river,
perhaps twenty metres wide, is deep enough to have allowed a steam-launch
of the _Selatan's_ dimensions to go as far as the kampong Rongkang, our
first destination, and there is little current. At five o'clock we had to
stop to give the men opportunity to prepare their rice, and in the evening
we arrived at Rongkang. The gongs were being beaten lustily in the
darkness; we thought it must be on account of a death, which proved to be
the case, a woman having died some days before. The house which was placed
at my disposal was more nearly airtight than usual.
The kapala said it was difficult to get men, but he would do his best. A
strange epidemic had lately appeared, and some deaths had occurred in the
kampongs of this region. In the room I occupied a woman had recently
recovered from an attack of a week's duration. The disease, which probably
is a variety of cholera, was described to me as being a severe diarrhoea
accompanied by vomiting, paralysis, and fever, the crisis occurring in
three to five days. The disorder appears to rise from the feet, and if it
settles between the liver and heart may prove fatal in half a day. As I
learned later, this illness, which the Malays call men-tjo-tjok, is
usually present in the inland region of the Sampit River, and is also
found on the upper parts of the Kahayan and Pembuang Rivers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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