Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
The controleur obligingly put the government's steam launch _Selatan_ at
my disposal, which would take me to the kampong Sembulo on the lake of the
same name, whence it was my intention to return eastward, marching partly
overland. One evening in the middle of June we started. On entering the
sea the small vessel rolled more and more; when the water came over the
deck I put on my overcoat and lay down on top of the entrance to the
cabin, which was below. The wind was blowing harder than it usually does
on the coasts of Borneo, and in the early morning shallow waters, which
assume a dirty red-brown colour long before reaching the mouths of the
mud-laden rivers, rose into waves that became higher as we approached the
wide entrance to the Pembuang River.
The sea washed over the port side as if we were on a sailing-boat, but the
water flowed out again through a number of small, oblong doors at the
sides which opened and closed mechanically. The launch, which was built in
Singapore, behaved well, but we had a good deal of cargo on deck as well
as down in the cabin. Besides, the approach to Pembuang River is not
without risks. The sand-bars can be passed only at one place, which is
twelve or thirteen metres wide and, at low water, less than a metre deep.
The route is at present marked out, but in bygone years many ships were
wrecked here.
As the sea became more shallow the yellow-crested waves of dirty water
mixed with sand assumed an aspect of fury, and lying on my back I seemed
to be tossed from one wave to another, while I listened with some
apprehension to the melodious report of the man who took the depth of the
water: "Fourteen káki" (feet)! Our boat drew only six feet of water;
"Seven káki," he sang out, and immediately afterward, "Six káki!" Now we
are "in for it," I thought. But a few seconds more and we successfully
passed the dangerous bar, the waves actually lifting us over it. My two
assistants had spent the time on top of the baggage and had been very
seasick. We were all glad to arrive in the smooth waters of the river. The
captain, with whom later I became well acquainted, was an excellent
sailor, both he and the crew being Malays. It was the worst weather he had
experienced in the two years he had been at Sampit. According to him,
conditions in this part of Borneo may be even more stormy from August to
November.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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