Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
In order to investigate a report from an otherwise reliable source about
Dayaks "as white as Europeans, with coarse brown hair, and children with
blue eyes," I made a stop at Rubea, two or three hours below Muara Tewe.
It was a small and sad-looking kampong of thirteen families in many
houses. Several children were seen, a little lighter of colour than usual,
but their eyes were brown, and there was nothing specially remarkable
about them nor the rest of the people whom the kapala called from the
ladangs. Children lighter than the parents is a usual phenomenon in black
and brown races. There was, however, one four-year-old boy conspicuous for
his light hair and general blondness, who was different from the ordinary
Dayak in frame and some of his movements; he was coarsely built, with
thick limbs, big square head, and hands and feet strikingly large. There
could be no doubt about his being a half-breed, neither face nor
expression being Dayak. One hare-lipped woman and a child born blind were
observed here. Other kampongs in the inland neighbourhood, mentioned in
the same report, were not visited.
On our arrival at Puruk Tjahu the low water at first made it doubtful
whether the _Otto_ would be able to proceed further, but during the night
it rose five metres, continued rising, and changed into a swollen river,
as in springtime, carrying sticks and logs on its dirty reddish waters.
After a foggy morning the sun came out and we had an enchanting day's
journey, the movement of the ship producing a soft breeze of balmy air
after the rainy night and morning. We passed a timber float stranded on
high ground, with Malay men, women, and children who had been living there
for weeks, waiting for the water to rise again as high as where it had
left them. They evidently enjoyed the unusual sight of the steamer, and
followed us attentively.
In the afternoon we arrived at Poru, a small, oppressively warm kampong,
deserted but for an old man and one family, the others having gone to
gather rattan in the utan. This was to be our starting-point, where our
baggage would have to be put in convenient shape for travel in boat and
overland, and where we hoped it might be possible to buy prahus and obtain
men by searching the kampongs higher up the river. In this we were
disappointed, so the lieutenant went back to Puruk Tjahu, in the
neighbourhood of which are many kampongs, nearly all Malay, there as well
as here. He took with him one soldier who had proved to have an obnoxious
disease, leaving us with five for the expedition, which we deemed
sufficient.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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