Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
We procured one more prahu, but the difficulties of getting more men were
very great, one reason being that the people had already begun to cut
paddi. Though the new year so far brought us no rain, still the river of
late had begun to run high on account of precipitation at its upper
courses. High water does not always deter, but rapid rising or falling is
fraught with risk. After several days' waiting the status of the water was
considered safe, and, leaving three boatloads to be called for later, in
the middle of January, we made a start and halted at a sand slope where
the river ran narrow among low hills, two hundred metres below the first
great kiham. Malay rattan gatherers, with four prahus, were already camped
here awaiting a favourable opportunity to negotiate the kihams, and they
too were going to make the attempt next morning. As the river might rise
unexpectedly, we brought ashore only what was needed for the night.
Next day at half-past six o'clock we started, on a misty, fresh morning,
and in a few minutes were within hearing of the roar of the rapids, an
invigorating sound and an inspiring sight. The so-called Kiham Atas is one
kilometre long. The left side of the river rises perpendicularly over the
deep, narrow waters, the lower part bare, but most of it covered with
picturesque vegetation, especially conspicuous being rows of sago palms.
The prahus had to be dragged up along the opposite side between big
stones. Only our instruments were carried overland, as we walked along a
foot-path through delightful woods, and at nine o'clock the prahus had
finished the ascent.
Not long afterward we approached the first of the four big kihams which
still had to be passed and which are more difficult. Having been relieved
of their loads the prahus were hauled, one at a time, around a big
promontory situated just opposite a beautiful cascade that falls into the
river on the mountainous side. Around the promontory the water forms
treacherous currents. Above it eight or nine Malays pulled the rattan
cable, which was three times as long as usual, and when the first prahu,
one man inside, came into view from below, passing the promontory, it
unexpectedly shot out into the middle of the river, and then, in an
equally startling manner, turned into a back current. This rapidly carried
it toward an almost invisible rock where Longko, who was an old hand on
this river, had taken his stand among the waves and kept it from
foundering. The Malays were pulling the rattan as fast as they could,
running at times, but before the prahu could be hauled up to safety it
still had to pass a hidden rock some distance out. It ran against this and
made a disagreeable turn, but regained its balance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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