Leaving Lowestoft for Yarmouth by the same road as before, we felt a sense of relief and with it a glorious consciousness of well-being. An hour or two of daylight still remained; we had been so long without stopping, otherwise than by our own will, that we felt as if we could go on for ever; the sky was clear, and we had not had enough, nor half enough, of travelling. A moon was due early that evening. It was even visible in the sky already, giving faint white promise of silvern glory to come. We had not ordered beds for the night anywhere. How would it be to skip afternoon tea, push on through Yarmouth for Norwich, dine there at the "Maid's Head," and consult our inclination as to proceeding by moonlight, perhaps to Wells, perhaps even to Lynn? It would, indeed, be very well, and in this mood we glided easily on to Yarmouth. This ancient capital of the herring-trade pleased us more, as we poked our noses and the bonnet of our car into various byways, than we had been pleased at Lowestoft. (These "we's," by the way, represent no editorial assumption, no false modesty about speaking in the first person, but simply a fourfold consensus of opinion.) Yarmouth pleased the more because it was and is manifestly a port. The smell of the herring is there, of course; the serried rows of steam-trawlers along the quay suggest that this herring fishery is a long way from being so picturesque a business as it was. Still Yarmouth strikes one as an honest, workaday place doing a good trade, and not at all ashamed of it. Yarmouth combined with "Leistocke"--Lowestoft probably--to contribute "1 shippe and one pinnace" to the fleet which defeated the Armada; and surely there is something of an Elizabethan ring about an early acrostic of unknown date, addressed by somebody--the Nymph of Yarmouth, perhaps--to its people: Y-ou, the inhabitants of Mee, [faire towne] A-dorned with riches both from sea and land, R-eason you have on knees for to fall downe M-agnifying God, for all comes from his hand, O-ver you all his works and mercies are, U-nto his children doth he give to eate T-he fyshe in sea, whatever the land doth beare, H-ym therefore do yee praise as is right meete. This is culled from the invaluable _Norfolk and Norwich Notes and Queries_, as is the following string of verses by Taylor, "the Water Poet"--the description is given just shortly like this, as one might say "Shakespere, the dramatist"--who visited the town in 1622 and found it: A towne well fortifide Well-governed, with all nature's wants supplied; The situation in a wholesome ayre, The building (for the most part) sumptuous and fayre, The people content, and industrious, and With labour makes the sea enrich the land.