Through East Anglia in a Motor CarVincent, James Edmund
General
Through East Anglia in a Motor Car
Vincent, James Edmund
Norfolk (England) -- Description and travel; Suffolk (England) -- Description and travel
At Binham we have part of the Benedictine abbey, enveloped in ivy and part
still used as a church, a very fine piece of unspoiled Norman work. For
Holkham, _Abbeys, Castles and Ancient Halls_, by Mr. John Timbs and Mr.
Alexander Gunn, is a treasure-house of information. Holkham is Hoeligham,
"Holy Home," and it was the work of the famous Kent under the direction of
Thomas Coke, Lord Leicester, who himself spent many years in Italy studying
the works of Palladio. "Coke of Norfolk," as the Lord Leicester of George
II's time was called, was emphatically a landowner who deserved to be
magnificently housed. An inscription over the entrance to the Great Hall
records the fact that "this seat, on an open, barren estate, was planned,
planted, built, decorated and inhabited in the middle of the eighteenth
century by Thomas Coke, Earl of Leicester." It naturally does not record
the fact that the barren estate, for such it was, is now, mainly by virtue
of Coke of Norfolk's sagacity in planting, one of the most nobly timbered
to be found anywhere in the kingdom and a perfect paradise for game first
and for those who shoot game later. In one respect the great Lord Coke's
plans were changed, one might almost write providentially. It had been
intended to build the outside of the Hall of Bath stone, but an earth was
found in a neighbouring parish which produced bricks of much the same
colour as Bath stone, but heavier and closer in texture. That was as it
should be. Coke of Norfolk had bought much of the land and, by enclosing,
cultivating and planting, had practically made it. It was part of the
fitness of things that a "mansion of almost peerless magnificence, as far
as its noble proportions, its gorgeous decorations, and its art and
literary treasures" were concerned, should be built out of bricks baked
out of Norfolk earth. The Hall stands in a spacious but level park, and a
glimpse of it may be had from the road. In the middle is a great
quadrangular block having, at each angle, a wing, 70 ft. by 60 ft.,
connected with the central block by a corridor. The wings are: the
stranger's wing, the family wing, the chapel wing, and the kitchen wing.
The library and the MSS. rooms are in the family wing; the gallery of
statues and the state apartments are in the central block. This is 114 ft.
by 62 ft., its most noble feature being the hall, suggested to Lord
Leicester by Palladio's plan for a Court of Justice, and having a gallery
round three sides of it. Of the pictures the most notable are Claude's
Apollo and Marsyas in a landscape, and other landscapes, Vandykes,
Poussins, a Raphael, and a Rubens. There is also a group of nineteen
figures by Michael Angelo. The manuscripts are of great value and
curiosity, and contain, amongst other things, the papers of the great Chief
Justice. In fact, Holkham is, in itself, for its contents, and for the
story of its creation, one of the most wonderful places in this marvellous
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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