Through East Anglia in a Motor CarVincent, James Edmund
General
Through East Anglia in a Motor Car
Vincent, James Edmund
Norfolk (England) -- Description and travel; Suffolk (England) -- Description and travel
At any rate the "Globe" will serve as a resting-place. From it we will
examine King's Lynn, thinking a little of its history and associations, and
take a drive of a single day in the first part of the chapter; and in the
second we will take, for purposes of writing, a considerably longer drive
which, for those who desire to see a great number of interesting places at
leisure, would be much better divided into two parts, or even three, than
taken in a single piece. Only, having visited all the places named, by road
too, but not expressly for the purpose of this book, I am disposed to
recommend a return to Lynn for the night, if a day seems to be growing too
long, rather than a sojourn at some outlying place in which the inn or
hotel, where there is one, has not been tested on my vile body. For
example, in this second drive, if my advice be taken, the traveller may
find himself at Brancaster at about the time of afternoon tea. Even on a
summer's day he will hardly be disposed to complete the programme
suggested. He can easily run back to Lynn, in time to dress for dinner
comfortably, along a different road from that which he took in coming, and
if he likes to start again at the next point in the drive on the following
morning, he can reach that again by a new series of roads. He is never
likely to regret his return to Lynn, because it is really an exceedingly
interesting and characteristic place.
"It was an old wild fancy that Catus Decianus," Boadicea's Roman
contemporary in this country, "founded Lynn," says Mr. Haverfield; on the
other hand, according to the _Encyclopædia Britannica_, it is supposed to
have been a British settlement. Its origin is, in fact, "wrop up in
mystery" rather more completely than is usual with old English towns. We
know that the earliest entry in the Red Book of Lynn is 1309, and the last
East Anglian bishop who occupied Thetford as his diocesan capital is
believed to have built a church where St. Margaret's now stands.
Presumably, therefore, Lynn was a place of some importance in his day,
which was at the end of the eleventh and the beginning of the twelfth
centuries. There is an odd tradition concerning the original church, of
which not much is left, for in the eighteenth century the spire collapsed
on to the nave in a gale of wind. The tradition, mentioned by Mr. Rye, is
that the foundation was laid on woolpacks; "but I fancy this only came from
some donation of wool, or of a wool subsidy, in aid of a partial
rebuilding. Whatever it was built on its foundations certainly settled very
much directly, for the tower leans over in such a Pisa-like way that it
makes a nervous spectator quite uncomfortable to go inside it and look up,
though the protecting piers have been there in their present places a
trifle over seven hundred years or so." How to reconcile this with the fact
that the spire was blown down on to the nave in 1741 is Mr. Rye's business,
not mine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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