Through East Anglia in a Motor CarVincent, James Edmund
General
Through East Anglia in a Motor Car
Vincent, James Edmund
Norfolk (England) -- Description and travel; Suffolk (England) -- Description and travel
Such are the reflections one may carry about the narrow streets of Lynn,
and sometimes, of an evening, one may go to the theatre, but my one
experience of that was not inviting. The maxim _ne coram populo_ was more
flagrantly trodden underfoot surely than ever before, when, in a play
called (I think) _Slaves of the Harem_, a full-blooded and genuine African
went through with a bowstring the gestures of executing an erring lady on
the stage (who in her turn made appropriate grimaces) to the uproarious
delight of an audience which insisted on encoring the scene. On the other
hand, time spent in talking with the people in warm bar-parlours of an
evening, or among the mariners who idle on the quay by day, as mariners
always have and always will, is apt to be rewarded by no means ill. Among
the sea-faring men, at any rate, hardy fishermen for the most part, the
feeling that one may be talking to lineal descendants of Vikings soon
deepens into conviction. They are fine seamen, too, these men of the east
coast, and the Navy depends upon them not a little; but very prudently, and
without saying anything about it, it is arranged that the same ship's
company shall never be part east and part west countrymen.
It was fore-ordained that this portion of a chapter should end with a
drive. It is a drive to be taken very shortly in print, and quite easily by
road over Fen country, not needing to be described anew, to a cathedral
city situate geographically in the Midlands--that is to say, to
Peterborough. Now Peterborough is in Northamptonshire, and Northamptonshire
sounds Midland as Midland can be. On what pretext is Peterborough
introduced? Really none is needed; our brief detour is but an illustration
of the truth that county boundaries, apart from the matters of police and
road-making, have no more meaning for the motorist than they had for the
Romans. Peterborough is easily accessible from Lynn, viâ Wisbech, by
thirty-five miles of flat road. Its cathedral dominates the Fens from the
west as Ely dominates their southern and central parts; it has been
intimately associated with their troubled history in the past. The
cathedral too, although by no means to be reckoned amongst the most
majestic to be found in England, is very fine in itself, and exceptionally
interesting and suggestive. I had written "instructive," but that is
usually a word raising expectation of tedious discourse. As a matter of
fact, little shall be written about Peterborough Cathedral, although many
personal impressions might be moulded into one. Go to see Peterborough
Cathedral. Remember that it is one of the three Norman cathedrals of
England; that the first church on this site was built in the closing years
of the seventh century, and rased to the ground by the Danes; that the
second was burned in the twelfth century; that the greater part of the
present structure was 120 years in the building before it was consecrated
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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