Through East Anglia in a Motor CarVincent, James Edmund
General
Through East Anglia in a Motor Car
Vincent, James Edmund
Norfolk (England) -- Description and travel; Suffolk (England) -- Description and travel
We started just after ten, on a windy and rainless morning, in an
atmosphere giving beautifully clear views of distant objects, and thereby
raising some reasonable apprehensions for the morrow among the
weather-wise. Our route lay outside my present manor until Royston was
reached, for it was through Dorchester, Thame, Aylesbury, Ivinghoe,
Dunstable, Luton, Hitchin, and Baldock; and the temptation to describe some
of it, especially the run along the Chilterns, is strong, but it must be
resisted. One observation, however, must be made. From Thame onwards, in
spite of the tendency of our road system to radiate from London obstinately
as in Roman times, much as our railways do, and as if cross-country
travelling were not a thing to be encouraged, there was little reason to
complain of want of directness in the road. But to journey from Abingdon to
Thame it is necessary to go round two sides of a rough but large triangle,
whether the route chosen be through Oxford, distant six miles, or through
Dorchester and Shillingford, which is rather longer. In either case the
traveller has been compelled to go a long way out of his true course, and
from the turning point to Thame is about the same distance in both cases.
To Royston the distance is, as nearly as may be, seventy miles, and the
last part of the run, where we followed the north-west edge of the
Chilterns, cutting in and out of Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire, and
Cambridgeshire in bewildering succession, was very exhilarating. A pretty
sight too were the Chilterns, with their swelling undulations of down turf,
marked out near Royston for galloping grounds and showing here and there,
in the form of a flag and a carefully tended green, that the golfer has
found his way to Royston. Indeed, this close down turf, this "skin" of
grass catching the full force of northerly and westerly gales, is suitable
to the golfer's needs as any save that of seaside links.
At Royston we found an ancient and interesting inn, actually bisected by
the ancient boundary line of Hertfordshire and Cambridgeshire, a kindly
welcome, most benign bulldogs, and last, but by no means least, a glorious
pie. The inn is there still no doubt; so probably are the bulldogs; so no
doubt is the kindly welcome; but the pie vanished in a manner almost
miraculous. It came in an ample dish, steaming, succulent, the crust
browned to a nicety. In a surprisingly short time the dish went out, empty,
almost clean as Jack Sprat's and his spouse's platter, and its exit was
accomplished by a gurgle of suppressed laughter from without. Was there
something of a rueful tone in that laughter? Perhaps there was. He who
would feed after March motorists have eaten their fill had best send in to
them a gigantic pasty, else will he go hungry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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