Through East Anglia in a Motor CarVincent, James Edmund
General
Through East Anglia in a Motor Car
Vincent, James Edmund
Norfolk (England) -- Description and travel; Suffolk (England) -- Description and travel
Let this headstrong hobby be curbed; but let it be added that these burly,
fair-complexioned farmers of Norfolk, whose very faces, seen in
considerable numbers, convinced one more than much reading of the presence
of abundant Danish blood in the county, looked and acted as if they
understood their business thoroughly. If they go on breeding gentle Red
Polls--the Red Polls are really quiet of disposition, perhaps because
inherited instinct tells them it is poor sport to fight without horns--it
is because the process pays. Let me add, in opposition to a statement seen
elsewhere, that I saw nothing of that brutal treatment of the animals which
is far too usual an accompaniment of the cattle trade. So to the general
market near the Guildhall, a grateful sight because more flowers were for
sale on the stalls than is usual in provincial markets, and the wares,
particularly the butter and the fowls, the latter neatly trussed and
wrapped in coarse muslin of spotless cleanliness, were so nicely exposed
for sale. Leland observed that "Northfolk" were said to be "ful of wyles";
a barber, from Hants, told me that morning, when I said I found the people
very intelligent, that he thought they knew far too much. My own view is
that of the "wyles" which consist in cleanly neatness in exposing food for
sale it is not possible to find too much, and not often easy to find
enough, in this England of ours.
Of the Guildhall, really a very interesting example, dating from the
beginning of the fifteenth century, of ingenious work in flint, and its
contents, some mention has been made before, and of the interior of the
cathedral also. But we entered the cathedral once more, walking on tiptoes
in the grand and empty nave, and certainly not disturbing the worshippers
in the chancel, for service was going on. The organ, as on a former visit,
was remarkably impressive, and, as quite a minor detail, I noted part of an
almost illegible inscription to one Ingloit on the south pillar of the
chancel arch. "In descant most, in voluntary all, he past." What was, or
is, "descant"? None of us knew. The necessary if rather humiliating process
of reference to a dictionary, which it is more honest to confess than it
would be to profess to have understood the legend at first sight, showed
that descant was the first stage in the development of counterpoint. So,
mounting once more to the Norman tower on the Castle Mound, to look at the
entrance to the Museum, but not entering, for time pressed and our
enterprise lay in the open air, we repaired to the "Maid's Head,"
discharged the reckoning, and were off again to the westward, on a windless
and rainless day; but that wisp of cloud no bigger than a man's hand, which
we had seen behind the cathedral spire against the pure blue overnight, had
been the precursor of a grey veil of cloud which overspread the whole face
of the sky.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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