Through England on a side saddle in the time of William and MaryFiennes, Celia
History
Through England on a side saddle in the time of William and Mary
Fiennes, Celia
England -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
They reckon it but 8 mile from the place I was at the night before, but
I was 3 or 4 hours at Least going it. Here I found a very good smith to
shoe y^e horses, for these stony hills and wayes pulls off a shoe
presently, and wears them as thinn that it was a Constant Charge to shoe
my horses every 2 or 3 dayes, but this smith did shoe them so well and
so good shoes y^t they held some of the shooes 6 weekes. Y^e stonyness
of the wayes all here about teaches them y^e art of makeing good shooes
and setting them on fast. Here I cross’d one of y^e stone bridges y^t
was pretty Large w^{ch} Entred me into Cumberlandshire. This River
together with y^e additionall springs Continually running into it all
the way from those vaste precipices Comes into a Low place and form a
broad water w^{ch} is very Cleer and Reaches 7 mile in Length, Uleswater
its Called, such another water as that of Wiandermer only that reaches
10 mile in Length, from Amblside to y^e sea, and this is but 7 such
miles Long. Its full of such sort of Stones and flatts in the bottom as
y^e other, neer the brimm where its Shallowe you see it Cleer to y^e
bottom; this is secured on Each side by such formidable heights as those
Rocky ffells in same manner as the other was. I rode the whole Length of
this water by its side, sometyme a Little higher upon the side of the
hill and sometyme just by the shore, and for 3 or 4 miles I Rode through
a fine fforest or Parke where was deer skipping about and haires, w^{ch}
by meanes of a good Greyhound I had a Little Course, but we being
strangers could not so fast pursue it in the grounds full of hillocks
and ffurse and soe she Escaped us. I observed the boundaries of all
these great waters (which are a sort of deep Lakes or kind of standing
waters) are those sort of Barren Rocky hills w^{ch} are so vastly high.
I Call this a standing water because its not like other great Rivers as
y^e Trent Severne, Hull or Thames &c. to appear to Run w^{th} a streame
or Current, but only as it Rowles from side to side Like waves as the
wind moves it; its true at the End of this being a Low fall of Ground it
runs off in a Little streame. There is Exceeding good ffish here and all
sorts of provision at y^e market towns. Their market town was Peroth 10
long miles. A mile or two beyond this Ullswater,—Tuesday is the market
day w^{ch} was the Day I came thither. Its a Long way for y^e market
people to goe but they and their horses are used to it and go w^{th}
much more facility than strangers. At y^e end of this Ullswater is a
fine round hill Look’d as green and full of wood very pleasant, w^{th}
grass and Corne very ffruitefull, and hereabout we Leave these Desart
and Barren Rocky hills, not that they are Limitted to Westmoreland only
for had I gone farther to y^e Left hand into Cumberland I should have
found more such, and they tell me farr worse for height and stony-nesse
about White haven side and Cockermouth, so y^t tho’ both the County’s
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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