Cumberland I Entred Northumberland. This is y^e place y^e judges Dine, its a sorry place for Entertainement of such a Company; here the Sherriffs meete them, it being the Entrance of Northumberland w^{ch} is much Like the other County. This it seemes Camden relates to be a Kingdom. This I am sure of, the more I travell’d Northward the Longer I found y^e miles, I am sure these 6 miles and y^e other 6 miles to Hartwhistle might with modesty be esteemed double the Number in most of y^e Countys in England, Especially in and about 30 or 40 miles off London. I did not go 2 of those miles in an hour. Just at my Entrance into Northumberland I ascended a very steep hill of w^{ch} there are many, but one about 2 mile forward was Exceeding steep, full of great Rocks and stone—some of it along on a Row (the remainder of the Picts walls or ffortification) at y^e bottom of w^{ch} was an old Castle the walls and towers of which was mostly Standing. Its a sort of Black moorish ground and so wet I observ’d as my Man Rode up that sort of precipice or steep his horses heeles Cast up water every step, and their feete Cut deepe in, Even quite up to y^e top. Such up and down hills and sort of boggy ground it was and y^e night Drawing fast on, y^e miles so Long, that I tooke a guide to direct me to avoid those ill places. This Hartwhistle is a Little town, there was one Inn but they had noe hay nor would get none, and when my servants had got some Else where they were angry and would not Entertaine me, so I was forced to take up in a poor Cottage w^{ch} was open to y^e Thatch and no partitions but hurdles plaistered. Indeed y^e Loft as they Called it w^{ch} was over the other roomes was shelter’d but w^{th} a hurdle; here I was fforced to take up my abode and y^e Landlady brought me out her best sheetes w^{ch} serv’d to secure my own sheetes from her dirty blanckets, and Indeed I had her fine sheete to spread over y^e top of the Clothes; but noe sleepe Could I get, they burning turff and their Chimneys are sort of fflews or open tunnills, y^t y^e smoake does annoy the roomes. This is but 12 miles from another part of Scotland, the houses are but a Little better built, its true the inside of them are kept a Little better. Not far from this a Mile or two is a greate hill from which rises 3 rivers: the Teese w^{ch} is y^e border between Durham and York, y^e Ouse that runns to Yorke, and the River Tyne which runns to NewCastle and is the divider of Northumberland and Durham. This river Tyne runns 7 miles and then joyns w^{th} the other river Tyne that Comes out of Northumberland and so they run on to NewCastle. From Hartwhistle I went pretty much up hill and down and had the River Tyne much in view for 6 miles, then I cross’d over it on a Large stone bridge and so Rode by its bank or pretty much in sight of it on the other side to Hexholme 6 mile more. This is one of the best towns in Northumberland Except NewCastle, w^{ch} is one place