Through England on a side saddle in the time of William and MaryFiennes, Celia
History
Through England on a side saddle in the time of William and Mary
Fiennes, Celia
England -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
At this Little Market town I pass’d over the River Weire w^{ch} runns to
Durham, w^{ch} is 7 mile farther over a pleasant Road and Country y^t
resembles Black heath, you see the towns and Countrys Round full of
Woods. One sees the Citty of Durham four mile off from a high hill, not
but the Citty stands on a great rise of Ground and is a mile and halfe
in Length. The river runs almost round the town and returns againe, that
Casts the Citty into a tryangular; its not Navigeable nor possible to be
made so because its so full of Rocks and vast stones, makes it difficult
for any such attempt. Durham Citty stands on a great hill, the middle
part much higher than the rest, the Cathedrall and Castle w^{ch} is y^e
pallace w^{th} y^e Colledge and all the houses of the Doctors of the
Churches is altogether built of stone and all Encompass’d w^{th} a wall
full of battlements above the walke, and this is about the middle of y^e
hill w^{ch} is a Round hill, and a steep descent into the rest of the
town, where is the market place w^{ch} is a spacious place, and a very
ffaire town hall on stone Pillars and a very Large Cunduite. From this
all the streets are in a pretty greate descent to y^e river, which
Lookes very pleasant by meanes of its turning and winding to and agen,
and so there are 3 Large Stone Bridges w^{th} severall arches apiece.
The abbey or y^e Cathedrall is very Large, the quire is good but nothing
Extraordinary, some good painting in the Glass of the windows and wood
Carving. There is over y^e alter a painting of a Large Catherine Wheele
which Encompasses the whole window and fills it up. The Bishops seate
has severall steps up, its Called y^e throne, with a Cloth of Gold
Carpet before it. The seate was King Charles the first, of Crimson
damaske. A good organ and a fine Clock in w^{ch} is the signes, w^{th}
Chimes, and finely Carved w^{th} four pirramidy spires on Each Corner, a
much Larger and higher one in the middle well Carv’d and painted. The
ffont is of marble, the top was Carv’d wood very high, and terminates in
a poynt and resembles the picture of y^e Building of Babel—its not
painted. The Cloysters are good. A Chapple Called S^t Marys now used for
to keep their spiritual Courts, and in the vestry I saw severall fine
Embroyder’d Coapes—3 or 4, I saw one above the rest was so Richly
Embroider’d w^{th} the whole Description of Christs nativity, Life,
Death and ascention; this is put on the Deanes shoulders at the
administration of the Lords supper, here is y^e only place that they use
these things in England, and severall more Cerimonyes and Rites retained
from the tymes of popery. There are many papists in the town, popishly
affected, and daily encrease. There was great striveing in the Choice of
the parliament men, w^{ch} I had the trouble of in most of my journeys,
y^e Randan they made in the publick houses, jndeed I happen’d to get
into a quiet good jnn a good accomodation, two Maiden sisters and
brother kept it—at y^e Naggs head.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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