Through Five Republics on Horseback, Being an Account of Many Wanderings in South AmericaRay, George Whitfield
Religion
Through Five Republics on Horseback, Being an Account of Many Wanderings in South America
Ray, George Whitfield
Ray, George Whitfield, 1868- -- Travel -- South America; South America -- Description and travel
from our mothers and sisters and wives, for they (the Chiquitanas) have
nothing to say. After all, ours are best, and a headache is often
preferable to companioning with the dumb. I unhesitatingly say, give me
the music, even if I have to suffer the consequences.
The waiting-time was employed by our hunter in his favorite sport. One
day he shot a huge alligator which was disporting itself in the water
some five hundred yards from the shore. Taking a strong rope, we went
out in an Indian dug-out to tow it to land. As my friend was the more
dexterous in the use of the paddle, he managed the canoe, and I, with
much difficulty, fixed the rope by a noose to the monster's tail. When
the towing, however, commenced, the beast seemed to regain his life. He
dived and struggled for freedom until the water was lashed into foam.
He thrust his mighty head out of the water and opened his jaws as
though warning us he could crush the frail dug-out with one snap. Being
anxious to obtain his hide, and momentarily expecting his death, for he
was mortally wounded, I held on to the rope with grim persistency. He
dived under the boat and lifted it high, but as his ugly nose came out
on the other side the canoe regained its position in the water. He then
commenced to tow us, but, refusing to obey the helm, took us to all
points of the compass. After an exciting cruise the alligator gave a
deep dive and the rope broke, giving him his liberty again. On leaving
us he gave what Waterton describes as "a long-suppressed, shuddering
sigh, so loud and so peculiar that it can be heard a mile." The bullet
had entered the alligator's head, but next morning we saw he was still
alive and able to "paddle his own canoe." The reader may be surprised
to learn that these repulsive reptiles lay an egg with a pure white
shell, fair to look upon, and that the egg is no larger than a hen's.
One day I was called to see a dead man for whom a kind of wake was
being held. He was lying in state in a grass-built hovel, and raised up
from the mud floor on two packing-cases of suspiciously British origin.
His hard Indian face was softened in death, but the observant eye could
trace a stoical resignation in the features. Several men and women were
sitting around the corpse counting their beads and drinking native
spirits, with a dim, hazy belief that that was the right thing to do.
They had given up their own heathen customs, and, being civilized,
must, of course, be Roman Catholics. They were "reduced," as Holy
Mother Church calls it, long ago, and, of course, believe that
civilization and Roman Catholicism are synonymous terms. Poor souls!
How they stared and wondered when they that morning heard for the first
time the story of Jesus, who tasted death for us that we might live. To
those in the home lands this is an old story, but do they who preach it
or listen to it realize that to millions it is still the newest thing
under the sun?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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