Through Five Republics on Horseback, Being an Account of Many Wanderings in South AmericaRay, George Whitfield
Religion
Through Five Republics on Horseback, Being an Account of Many Wanderings in South America
Ray, George Whitfield
Ray, George Whitfield, 1868- -- Travel -- South America; South America -- Description and travel
There is no church or priest in the village of Piedra Blanca. Down on
the beach there is a church bell, which the visitor concludes is a
start in that direction, but he is told that it is destined for the
town of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, three hundred miles inland. The bell
was a present to the church by some pious devotee, but the money
donated did not provide for its removal inland. This cost the priests
refuse to pay, and the Chiquitanos equally refuse to transport it free.
There is no resident priest to make them, so there it stays. In the
meantime the bell is slung up on three poles. It was solemnly beaten
with a stick on Christmas Eve to commemorate the time when the "Mother
of Heaven" gave birth to her child Jesus. In one of the principal
houses of the village the scene was most vividly reproduced. A small
arbor was screened off by palm leaves, in which were hung little
colored candles. Angels of paper were suspended from the roof, that
they might appear to be bending over the Virgin, which was a
highly-colored fashion-plate cut from a Parisian journal that somehow
had found its way there. The child Jesus appeared to be a Mellin's
Food-fed infant. Round this fairy scene the youth and beauty of the
place danced and drank liberal potations of chicha, the Bolivian
spirits, until far on into morning, when all retired to their hammocks
to dream of their goddess and her lovely babe.
After this paper Virgin the next most prominent object of worship I saw
in Piedra Blanca was a saint with a dress of vegetable fibre, long hair
that had once adorned a horse's tail, and eyes of pieces of clamshell.
Poor, dark Bolivia! It would be almost an impossible thing to
exaggerate the low state of religion there. A communication from Sucre
reads: "The owners of images of Jesus as a child have been getting
masses said for their figures. A band of music is employed, and from
the church to the house a procession is formed. A scene of intoxication
follows, which only ends when a good number lie drunk before the
image--the greater the number the greater the honor to the image?" The
peddler of chicha carries around a large stone jar, about a yard in
depth. The payment for every drink sold is dropped into the jar of
liquor, so the last customers get the most "tasty" decoction.
Naturally the masses like a religion of license, and are as eager as
the priests to uphold it. Read a tale of the persecution of a
nineteenth century missionary there. Mr. Payne in graphic language
tells the story:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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