Through Five Republics on Horseback, Being an Account of Many Wanderings in South AmericaRay, George Whitfield
Religion
Through Five Republics on Horseback, Being an Account of Many Wanderings in South America
Ray, George Whitfield
Ray, George Whitfield, 1868- -- Travel -- South America; South America -- Description and travel
Being in England in 1900 for change and rest, I was introduced to an
eccentric old gentleman of miserly tendencies, but possessed of
$5,000,000. Hearing of my wanderings in South America, he told me that
he owned a tract of land thirteen miles square in Paraguay, and would
like to know something of its value. The outcome of this visit was that
I was commissioned by him to go to that country and explore his
possession, so I proceeded once more to my old field of labor. Arriving
at the mouth of the River Plate, after five weeks of sea-tossing, I
was, with the rest, looking forward to our arrival in Buenos Ayres,
when a steam tug came puffing alongside, and we were informed that as
the ship had touched at the infected port of Bahia, all passengers must
be fumigated, and that we must submit to three weeks' quarantine on
Flores Island. The Port doctor has sent a whole ship-load to the island
for so trifling a cause as that a sailor had a broken collar-bone, so
we knew that for us there was nothing but submission. Disembarking from
the ocean steamer on to lighters, we gave a last look at the coveted
land, "so near and yet so far," and were towed away to three small
islands in the centre of the river, about fifty miles distant. One
island is set apart as a burial ground, one is for infected patients,
and the other, at which we were landed, is for suspects. On that desert
island, with no other land in sight than the sister isles, we were
given time to chew the cud of bitter reflection. They gave us little
else to chew! The food served up to us consisted of strings of dried
beef, called _charqui_, which was brought from the mainland in dirty
canvas bags. This was often supplemented by boiled seaweed. Being
accustomed to self-preservation, I was able to augment this diet with
fish caught while sitting on the barren rocks of our sea-girt prison.
Prison it certainly was, for sentries, armed with Remingtons, herded us
like sheep.
The three weeks' detention came to an end, as everything earthly does,
and then an open barge, towed by a steam-launch, conveyed us to
Montevideo. Quite a fresh breeze was blowing, and during our eleven
hours' journey we were repeatedly drenched with spray. Delicate ladies
lay down in the bottom of the boat in the throes of seasickness, and
were literally washed to and fro, and saturated, as they said, to the
heart. We landed, however, and I took passage up to Asuncion in the
"Olympo."
The "Olympo" is a palatial steamer, fitted up like the best Atlantic
liners with every luxury and convenience. On the ship there were
perhaps one hundred cabin passengers, and in the steerage were six
hundred Russian emigrants bound for Corrientes, three days' sail north.
Two of these women were very sick, so the chief steward, to whom I was
known, hurried me to them, and I was thankful to be able to help the
poor females.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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