Through lands that were dark: Being a record of a year's missionary journey in Africa and MadagascarHawkins, F. H.
Religion
Through lands that were dark: Being a record of a year's missionary journey in Africa and Madagascar
Hawkins, F. H.
London Missionary Society -- History; Missions -- Madagascar; Missions -- South Africa; Missions -- Zambia
After a stay of ten days at Mbereshi we plunged into the forest again
and journeyed to Chiengi on the north-east shore of Lake Mweru, which
was discovered by Livingstone in the late sixties. On the way we
paid a visit to Kashiba, a proposed site for the new station for the
Chiengi district. This visit brought home to us very clearly some of
the discomforts of Central African travel. After leaving our camp we
had to traverse some half-mile of bad swamp, being carried through
several stretches of water on the shoulders of our bearers. I used a
bicycle, but before we had gone very far a tremendous storm broke and
flooded the path. We sought shelter in a hut in one of the villages.
There was a fire inside, the smoke from which filled the hut and only
partially escaped through the thatch and the door. Except for the glow
of the fire and the flashes of lightning seen through the doorway
it was perfectly dark. The village street gradually became a raging
torrent. After the storm had ceased we pushed on through the long
grass, six to ten feet high and laden with water, arching over the
narrow winding path. We passed through a succession of villages, and
as we neared the site of the proposed station the people, who knew why
we were coming and who are most anxious to have a missionary residing
amongst them, gave us an ovation. The site overlooks the rapids of the
great Kalungwishi river, and a mile away a column of spray indicated
the presence of a great waterfall. Another deluge of rain descended
as we turned back. I hastened in front on the bicycle and reached the
swamp as it was getting dark. The heavy rain had converted it into a
lake. I rode along the path until the water was up to the pedals, then
I dismounted and pushed the machine. Soon both wheels were under water.
It grew deeper and deeper until finally, when the water became breast
high, I was obliged to lift the machine and carry it over my head. Such
are the joys of travel in Central Africa!
Next day we entered the sleeping-sickness area and crossed the great
Game Reserve to get our first sight of Lake Mweru. The day afterwards
we arrived at Chiengi, after experiencing the delights of travelling on
a narrow path along which for miles elephants had been walking after
the rain. Cycling under such conditions is a somewhat trying experience.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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