Through lands that were dark: Being a record of a year's missionary journey in Africa and MadagascarHawkins, F. H.
Religion
Through lands that were dark: Being a record of a year's missionary journey in Africa and Madagascar
Hawkins, F. H.
London Missionary Society -- History; Missions -- Madagascar; Missions -- South Africa; Missions -- Zambia
The view of Lake Mweru from the verandah of the Native Commissioner’s
house at Chiengi is of surpassing loveliness. To the south the lake
stretches away as far as the eye can see, bordered on the left side by
the forest and on the right by the mountains of the Belgian Congo 25
miles away. Opposite, a little to the south, is Lunza, the beautiful
home of Mr. Dan Crawford, the famous author of “Thinking Black.” At
one’s feet the water broke in tiny wavelets on the golden sand. Its
music was in our ears throughout our stay. The Central African sunset
from Chiengi was a sight to be remembered. The sun went down behind a
bar of cloud. A purple light, which rapidly turned to green, lit up the
western shores of the lake. After the sun had sunk below the horizon
there was a perfect blaze of colour over a large portion of the sky,
and purple, green and golden light stretched in broad bands above the
surface of the lake.
From Chiengi we journeyed to Mpolokoso, the newest of the stations
of the L. M. S. in Central Africa, where Dr. McFarlane has a small
hospital consisting of eight native huts. Our stay here was curtailed
owing to a very serious outbreak of small-pox, nearly half the
inhabitants of the village suffering from this scourge. Most of
those who were not isolated in the segregation camp had already had
the disease. Mpolokoso himself, the Chief of the village, succumbed
to it a few days later. The Government officials were using every
effort to stay the spread of the disease; all infected huts were at
once destroyed by fire, and no one was allowed to enter or leave the
village. The thin columns of smoke ascending from the burning huts into
the cloudless sky told a pathetic tale. On arrival our carriers were
put into custody to prevent them mixing with the people, and every
precaution was taken for the safety of ourselves and our men. One felt
great sympathy with Mr. Cullen Gouldsbury, the Native Commissioner,
upon whom great responsibility rested. Mr. Gouldsbury is a man of many
parts. He is in the service of the British South Africa Company’s
Administration, and we had many indications of the sympathetic way
in which he carried out his duties in looking after the welfare of
the natives. Moreover, he is a poet of no mean order, a constant
contributor of verse to the columns of the _Bulawayo Chronicle_, has
written a delightful book of poems, is the joint author of “The Great
Plateau of Northern Rhodesia,” the most authoritative work on the
country through which we were travelling, and last year published a
book entitled “An African Year.” He has always been a friend of the
Mission, and it will be of interest to quote his testimony from his
latest book, as to one of our missionaries and his wife, which is
rendered all the more valuable by the fact that Mr. Gouldsbury is
himself a Roman Catholic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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