Through lands that were dark: Being a record of a year's missionary journey in Africa and MadagascarHawkins, F. H.
Religion
Through lands that were dark: Being a record of a year's missionary journey in Africa and Madagascar
Hawkins, F. H.
London Missionary Society -- History; Missions -- Madagascar; Missions -- South Africa; Missions -- Zambia
“The walk was somewhat arduous, as much of it was through very long,
thick, bamboo-like grass. Beyond the second village the land is
uninhabited, and is forbidden ground owing to the sleeping-sickness
regulations. We had to obtain special passes from the officials at
Abercorn to permit us to make the trip. Mr. Clark had gone down with
thirty men a week before to clear the path as much as possible and to
burn the grass where necessary and practicable. It was an eight-mile
walk to the former Mission station at Niamkolo, and nearly two miles
further to the shore. The old station was a pathetic sight. The brick
house in which the Stewart Wrights and the Clarks had lived was in
ruins, as it had been left after the fire seven years ago. The walls
were standing to the first floor, and inside trees, shrubs and grasses
were growing in wild profusion. It was on Saturday evening, the 29th
June, 1906, that the detached kitchen took fire in a great gale of
wind. The sparks were carried on to the thatch of the dwelling house,
and in two hours the place was burnt out--very little being saved.
The Clarks were there to see their home destroyed before their eyes.
This was the first time Mrs. Clark had visited the spot since the
conflagration.
“Then came the walk down the hill past the site of the house in which
Mr. and Mrs. Hemans, the black missionaries from Jamaica, used to
live. Then we crossed the plain, once a great garden and rice field,
now a swamp, to reach the Church and the shore. I was carried across
the swamp by two men holding hands, on which I sat with my arms round
their necks. We reached the ruins of the Church about mid-day. It
is picturesquely situated on a hill overlooking the south end of
the lake, and the island belonging to the Society. Its appearance
suggests, on a smaller scale, the ruins of Iona Cathedral far more
than those of a Church in Central Africa. The walls and gable end
and the roofless bell-tower are still standing--and what walls
they are!--all of light stone fashioned in large slabs, and a yard
thick. We had lunch in the bell-tower in some trepidation, as the
over-hanging stones threatened to fall, and then we made our way down
to the stony beach, where we lingered long. The scene was beautiful
beyond description. The lake stretched away to the north into the
‘glow and glory of the distance,’ where water and sky met on the
horizon. The hills on each side were clothed with sylvan loveliness.
The sky was reflected on the bosom of the water. White cloud was piled
on white cloud with many a glimpse of deepest blue, and the glorious
sunshine dominated the scene. It was a dream of beauty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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