Through Our Unknown Southwest: The Wonderland of the United States—Little Known and Unappreciated—The Home of the Cliff Dweller and the Hopi, the Forest Ranger and the Navajo,—The Lure of the Painted DesertLaut, Agnes C.
History
Through Our Unknown Southwest: The Wonderland of the United States—Little Known and Unappreciated—The Home of the Cliff Dweller and the Hopi, the Forest Ranger and the Navajo,—The Lure of the Painted Desert
Laut, Agnes C.
Hopi Indians; Navajo Indians; Southwest, New -- Description and travel
You strike into the Petrified Forests from Adamana or Holbrook. Adamana
admits you to one section of the petrified area, Holbrook to
another--both equally marvelous and easily accessible. If you go out in
a big tally-ho with several others in the rig, the charge will be from
$1.50 to $2.50. If you hire a driver and fast team for yourself, the
charge will be from $4 to $6. Both places have hotels, their charges
varying from $1 and $1.50 in Holbrook, to $2 and $2.50 at Adamana. The
hotel puts up your luncheon and water keg, and the trips can be made,
with the greatest ease in a day.
Don't go to the Petrified Forests expecting thrills of the big
knock-you-down variety! To go from the spacious glories of the boundless
Painted Desert to the little 2,000-acre area of the Petrified Forests is
like passing from a big Turner or Watts canvas in the Tate Gallery,
London, to a tiny study in blue mist and stars by Whistler. If you go
looking for "big" things you'll come away disappointed; but if like
Tennyson and Bobby Burns and Wordsworth, "the flower in the crannied
wall" has as much beauty for you as the ocean or a mountain, you'll come
away touched with the mystery of that Southwestern Wonderland quite as
much as if you had come out of all the riotous intoxication of color in
the Painted Desert.
In fact, you drive across the southern rim of the Painted Desert to
reach the Petrified Forests. You are crossing the aromatic,
sagey-smelling dry plain pink with a sort of morning primrose light,
when you come abruptly into broken country. A sandy arroyo trenches and
cuts the plain here. A gravelly hillock hunches up there; and just when
you are having an eye to the rear wheel brake, or glancing back to see
whether the fat man is on the up or down side, your eye is caught by
spangles of rainbow light on the ground, by huge blood-colored rocks the
shape of a fallen tree with encrusted stone bark on the outside and
wedges and slabs and pillars of pure onyx and agate in the middle.
Somehow you think of that Navajo legend of the coyote spilling the stars
on the face of the sky, and you wonder what marvel-maker among the gods
of medicine-men spilled his huge bag of precious stone all over the
gravel in this fashion. Then someone cries out, "Why, look, that's a
tree!" and the tally-ho spills its occupants out helter-skelter; and
someone steps off a long blood-red, bark-incrusted column hidden at both
ends in the sand, and shouts out that the visible part of the recumbent
trunk is 130 feet long. There was a scientist along with us the day we
went out, a man from Belgium in charge of the rare forests of Java; and
he declared without hesitation that many of these prone, pillared giants
must be sequoias of the same ancient family as California's groves of
big trees. Think what that means! These petrified trees lie so deeply
buried in the sand that only treetops and sections of the trunks and
broken bits of small upper branches are visible. Practically no
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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