Through Our Unknown Southwest: The Wonderland of the United States—Little Known and Unappreciated—The Home of the Cliff Dweller and the Hopi, the Forest Ranger and the Navajo,—The Lure of the Painted DesertLaut, Agnes C.
History
Through Our Unknown Southwest: The Wonderland of the United States—Little Known and Unappreciated—The Home of the Cliff Dweller and the Hopi, the Forest Ranger and the Navajo,—The Lure of the Painted Desert
Laut, Agnes C.
Hopi Indians; Navajo Indians; Southwest, New -- Description and travel
It is late September. A parrot calls out in Spanish from the center of
the patio where our rooms look out on an arcade running round the court
in a perfect square. A mocking-bird trills saucily from his cage amid
the cosmos bloom. Donkeys and burros amble past the rear gate with loads
of wood strapped to their backs. Your back window looks out on the
courtyard. Your front window faces the street across from a plaza, or
city square. Stalwart, thick-set, muscular figures, hair banded back by
red and white scarfs, trousers of a loose, white pantaloon sort, tunic a
gray or white blanket, wrapped Arab fashion from shoulders to waist,
stalk with quick, nervous tread along the plaza; for it is the feast of
Saint Geronimo presently. The whole town is in festal attire. There will
be dancing all night and all day, and rude theatricals, and horse and
foot races; and the plaza is agog with sightseers. No, it is not Persia;
and it is not Palestine; and it is not Spain. It is just plain,
commonplace America out at Taos--white man's Taos, at the old Columbia
Hotel, which is the last of the old-time Spanish inns.
As you motor into the town, the long rows of great cottonwoods and
poplars attest the great age of the place. Through windows deep set in
adobe casement and flush with the street, you catch glimpses of inner
patios where oleanders and roses are still in bloom. Then you see the
roof windows of artists' studios, and find yourself not only in an old
Spanish town but in the midst of a modern art colony, which has been
called into being by the unique coloring, form and antiquity of life in
the Southwest. A few years ago, when Lungren and Philips and Sharpe and
a dozen others began portraying the marvelous coloring of the
Southwestern Desert with its almost Arab life, the public refused to
accept such spectacular, un-American work as true. Such pictures were
diligently "skied" by hanging committees, and a few hundred dollars was
deemed a good price. To-day, Southwestern art forms a school by itself;
and where commissions used to go begging at hundreds of dollars, they
to-day command prices of thousands and tens of thousands. When I was in
Taos, one artist was filling commissions for an Eastern collector that
would mount up to prices paid for the best work of Watts and Whistler.
It is a brutal way to put art in terms of the dollar bill; but it is
sometimes the only way to make a people realize there are prophets in
our own country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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