Through Our Unknown Southwest: The Wonderland of the United States—Little Known and Unappreciated—The Home of the Cliff Dweller and the Hopi, the Forest Ranger and the Navajo,—The Lure of the Painted DesertLaut, Agnes C.
History
Through Our Unknown Southwest: The Wonderland of the United States—Little Known and Unappreciated—The Home of the Cliff Dweller and the Hopi, the Forest Ranger and the Navajo,—The Lure of the Painted Desert
Laut, Agnes C.
Hopi Indians; Navajo Indians; Southwest, New -- Description and travel
Unlike other Missions built of adobe, San Xavier is of stone and brick.
It is 100 by thirty feet. The transept on each side of the nave runs out
twenty-one feet square. The roof above the nave is supported by groined
arches from door to altar. The cupola above the altar is fifty feet to
the dome. The other vaults are only thirty feet high. The windows are
high in the clearstory and set so deeply in the casement that the light
falling on the mural paintings and fresco work is sifted and softened.
Practically all the walls, cupola, dome, transept, nave, are covered
with mural paintings. There is the coming of the Spirit to the
Disciples. There is the Last Supper. There is the Conception. There is
the Rosary. There is the Hidden Life of the Lord.
The main altar has evidently been constructed by the Jesuits; for the
statue of St. Francis Xavier stands below the Virgin between figures of
St. Peter and St. Paul and God, the Creator. On the groined arches of
the dome are figures of the Wise Men, the Flight to Egypt, the
Shepherds, the Annunciation. Gilded arabesques colored in Moorish shell
tints adorn the main altar. Statues of the saints stand in the alcoves
and niches of the pillars and vaults. Two small doors lead up to the
towers from the main door. Look well at these doors and stairways. Not a
nail has been driven. The doors are mortised of solid pieces. The first
flight of stairs leads to the choir. Around the choir are more mural
paintings. Two more twists of the winding stair; and you are in the
belfry. Twenty-two more steps bring you to the summit of the tower--a
galleried cupola, seventy-five feet above the ground, where you may look
out on the whole world.
Pause for a moment, and look out. The mountains shimmer in their pink
mists. The sunlight sleeps against the adobe walls of the scattered
Indian house. You can hear the drone of the children from the
schoolrooms behind the Mission. You can see the mortuary chapel down to
the right and the lions supporting the arches of the Mission roof.
Father Kino was a famous European scholar and gentleman. He threw aside
scholarship. He threw aside comfort. He threw aside fame; and he came to
found a Mission amid arabs of the American Desert. The hands that
wrought these paintings on the walls were not the hands of bunglers.
They were the hands of artists, who wrought in love and devotion. Three
times, San Xavier was dyed in martyr blood by Indian revolt.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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