The extent to which the wind buffeted us might have led one to suppose
that its primary objective was to deflect our steps, and turn them in
the direction of the mountains. Indeed, at times its pressure was so
strong that we had no choice but to halt, to turn our backs to the sea,
and, with feet planted apart, to prise ourselves against our sticks,
and so remain, poised on three legs, until we were past any risk of
being overwhelmed with the soft incubus of the tempest, and having our
coats torn from our shoulders.
At intervals such gasps would come from my companion that he might well
have been standing on the drying-board of a bath. Nor, as they did so,
was his appearance aught but comical, seeing that his ears, appendages
large and shaggy like a dog's, and indifferently shielded with a shabby
old cap, kept being pushed forward by the wind until his small head
bore an absurd resemblance to a china bowl. And that, to complete the
resemblance, his long and massive nose, a feature grossly
disproportionate to the rest of his diminutive face, might equally well
have passed for the spout of the receptacle indicated.
Yet a face out of the common it was, like the whole of his personality.
And this was the fact which had captivated me from the moment when I
had beheld him participating in a vigil service held in the
neighbouring church of the monastery of New Athos. There, spare, but
with his withered form erect, and his head slightly tilted, he had been
gazing at the Crucifix with a radiant smile, and moving his thin lips
in a sort of whispered, confidential, friendly conversation with the
Saviour. Indeed, so much had the man's smooth, round features (features
as beardless as those of a Skopetz [A member of the Skoptzi, a
non-Orthodox sect the members of which "do make of themselves eunuchs
for the Lord's sake."], save for two bright tufts at the corners of the
mouth) been instinct with intimacy, with a consciousness of actually
being in the presence of the Son of God, that the spectacle,
transcending anything of the kind that my eyes had before beheld, had
led me, with its total absence of the customary laboured, servile,
pusillanimous attitude towards the Almighty which I had generally found
to be the rule, to accord the man my whole interest, and, as long as
the service had lasted, to keep an eye upon one who could thus converse
with God without rendering Him constant obeisance, or again and again
making the sign of the cross, or invariably making it to the
accompaniment of groans and tears which had always hitherto obtruded
itself upon my notice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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