South America -- Description and travel; South America -- History
As might be expected in such a vigorously modern city, the severest of
the restrictions on social intercourse familiar in Latin capitals are
here impatiently thrust aside. In the five o’clock parade of the
fashionables that wends its way toward the beautiful Palermo Park on
Sundays, there are no closed carriages or dark mantillas to conceal the
allurements of the señoritas, although many may still huddle demurely at
the sides of their dueñas while they distribute the most decorous of
smiles among their eager acquaintances of the opposite sex. Here
palm-bordered Sarmiento Avenue is crowded with carriages and motor cars
six, often eight, rows deep, two stationary in the center and two moving
on either side, in which ride as smartly gowned women as may be seen
anywhere in America. In the same throng glimpses may be caught of
reigning music-hall favorites, at whose sides are usually to be found
care-free horsemen just in from the Camp, mounted on superb stallions
heavy with silver trappings, and generally with an air of somewhat less
sophisticated enjoyment of the event.
[Illustration: JOCKEY CLUB’S GRANDSTAND AT THE RACE TRACK.]
There is a prodigality about the _Porteño_ in his pleasures that
staggers the visitor from the North. Backed by an almost limitless
wealth from cattle ranch or plantation, he scatters his _pesos_ with a
princely hand. And, of course, there is the obverse of the picture.
There is the under world here, peopled largely by immigration from the
centers of European unrest, in which there is to be found an extreme of
destitution. This is the breeding place of anarchistic ideas, that
frequently find expression in violence and that are surely becoming one
of the city’s most serious problems.
The zest for amusement among all classes finds many outlets. Strolling
along the Calle Florida, or the Calles Cangallo, Esmeralda, Cuyo, Maipó,
and other well-paved, brilliantly illuminated streets of the theater
district, after the fever of the business day has subsided, one drops in
at the “English Bar,” the “Bierhalle,” “Confiteria,” or “Café Parisien,”
and is sure to find a compatriot to join him in the refreshment of his
predilection. Or, for the more solid enjoyment of dinner, the visitor,
whether French, North American, Briton, or Turk, can find his favorite
national dishes excellently served—at the Restaurant Charpentier, where
an orchestra, really good, will for the moment take the homesick
Parisian back to his native boulevards; or at the “Sportsman,” where the
North American is beguiled from his nostalgia by Sousa’s marches,
perhaps, or by biograph pictures of steeple-chasers and Oriental
dancers; or at Monsch’s Restaurant, which specializes in the Briton’s
needs—where, with a look of acute understanding, the head waiter will
permit the guest to select his own English mutton chop or steak from the
glass-doored ice chest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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