South America -- Description and travel; South America -- History
All the high peaks are said to be of volcanic origin. Those from
Mercedario to Tupungato are precipitous and craggy and decked with great
glaciers. The sky line is jagged, like the walls of a ruined castle.
Below the snow, the rocks are richly colored. There are vast palisades
of dark reds and browns, slopes of purple streaked with yellow, and all
sorts of other gorgeous combinations, and, down in the lower valleys,
brilliant greens. The streams of melting snow pouring down the sides
seem to take on tints that correspond. In some places they flow red, as
with blood from the breast of a giant; in others, with the sun gleaming
on them, they look like molten gold. The main branch of the Rio Mendoza,
for instance, above Cuevas on the Argentine side, seems pink at first,
and, lower down, after mixing with the waters of its tributaries,
changes to a golden brown. It is one of those scenes that artists are
always accused of exaggerating and adding fanciful touches to when they
attempt the poor reproductions that the greatest only can give, so far
are they beyond human skill to portray—one of those scenes that few
mortals are gifted enough to comprehend the unutterable majesty and
magnificence of even when they have an opportunity to view the
originals. Even Burton Holmes, the great globe-trotter and lecturer, in
relating his impression in a recent article, confesses that he could not
appreciate it at first.
“Naturally, we were eager at least to see this monarch
mountain—Aconcagua, the King of the Cordillera,” he says.
“Accordingly, we organized a little expedition, and, under the
guidance of the capable young Britisher who is in charge of the
livestock of the camp at Puente del Inca, and his Chilean
‘_Capitaz_,’ or chief man, we rode away up a lateral valley
toward a well-known point of view, whence Aconcagua could be
clearly seen. A snow-clad mountain looms up at the end of that
barren valley. ‘That’s a rather fine peak,’ I remarked. ‘Well,
rather,’ replied the Englishman. ‘That’s the one you have come
to see; that’s Aconcagua.’ We were astounded, for the mountain
seemed no huger than the Jungfrau, as viewed from Interlaken. In
fact, it greatly resembles the Jungfrau in form and outline, and
its setting, from this point of view, is similar. We had
expected to be overwhelmed at sight of some sharp, tremendous,
towering shape—some magnified Matterhorn. What we beheld was
like a section of a snowy range—a culminating section of that
range, perhaps—but not a sharply defined peak. Yet we were
looking at the highest crest of the Western Hemisphere.
Everything about us was on a scale so vast that even Aconcagua
was dwarfed by the tremendous setting.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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