South America -- Description and travel; South America -- History
“Is unique in the charm of her unconventional beauty and the
rugged splendor of her surroundings. Like a queen in the giant
castle that nature has given her, with walls of the imperishable
granites of the Cordilleras and towers reaching to the skies,
she seems created for the homage of those who gaze upon her. Her
face is toward the sunset, as if in expectation of the high
destiny that awaits this land of promise in the golden west of
South America; and, from the snowy peaks behind her, marked
clear against the blue sky, to the farthest limit westward,
bordered by the boundless Pacific, there is no alien territory
to limit the prospect of her fair domain. Her jewels, rare and
resplendent, are the rich emerald of the Andean valleys, the
matchless sapphire of Andean skies, the pure diamonds of Andean
streams. Her royal robes are woven of the marvelous purple and
gold of Andean sunsets, unrivaled in brilliancy, and imparting
to her gracious beauty the glow of infinite loveliness, as they
envelop her utterly, catching even the snowy peaks of her
sovereign diadem in their magic folds.”
Nor is this in the least overdrawn. No city could be more delightfully
situated. It lies in the great central valley, on a plateau forty miles
long and about twenty wide, nearly two thousand feet above the level of
the sea, where the climate is as perfect as that in the Pyrenees, and is
almost completely enclosed by a magnificent border of mountains. Luzerne
and other show places in Switzerland are mere miniatures compared with
it. The level portion of the ground is highly cultivated with all sorts
of fruits and crops that grow in the temperate zone and is divided into
large _haciendas_ or plantations, nearly all with fine cattle and
horse-breeding farms attached, and princely mansions as of feudal lords,
and there are splendid avenues of giant eucalyptus along the roads and
separating the fields. In the heart of the city itself is a hill called
El Cerro de Santa Lucia, that rises to a height of three hundred feet
and is half as big around as Central Park in New York, a spot which such
a connoisseur as William E. Curtis declared he had “long held to be the
prettiest place in the world.” The summit is reached by a number of
winding driveways and walks, lined with trees, flowering shrubs and
overhanging vines and flanked by battlemented walls and towers,
picturesque beyond description; there are terraces ornamented with
flower beds and fountains, and grottos, balconies, and rustic seats; all
along, at intervals, are kiosks for music and refreshments; half way up
is a theater where light opera and vaudeville performances are given
both afternoons and evenings; a little farther on is a restaurant that
is a favorite resort for breakfasting and dining out, and, best of all,
from the summit there is a glorious view of the whole country around.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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