South America -- Description and travel; South America -- History
The long series of groups of islands beginning with Chiloé, about
two-thirds of the way down the coast, is said to be nothing more than a
partly submerged section of the Western Cordillera. Above the surface of
the water, for a distance of about eighty miles, they still have an
average elevation of about two thousand feet. Embraced in the Chonos
Archipelago, between Chiloé and the Taytao Peninsula, are more than a
thousand small islands, rocks, and reefs, and then come the large
islands of Wellington, Madre de Dios, Chatham, Hanover, Queen Adelaide,
King William’s Land, etc., each fringed by groups of little ones and all
following the mainland in a graceful curve and separated from it by the
Messier, Sarmiento, and Smyth Channels, which, together, extend for
three hundred and sixty miles, from the Penas Gulf to the Strait of
Magellan. As the steamer glides through, at times so straight are they
and such is the uniformity of the shore line on either side, one fancies
one’s self in a wide river in the interior of the continent; at others,
when openings among the islands appear and the water stretches for miles
toward the sea or far into the recesses of the Cordillera, it seems more
like a great lake.
The fjordlike formations recall the more celebrated channel off the
coast of Norway leading to the North Cape. Indeed, it is generally
agreed by those who have seen both that there is little to choose
between them, for, in both, the indentations and mountains of the coast
and islands are similar in character; if there is less variety in the
Chilean one, if the rainstorms are more frequent, to compensate for it
there is a much greater and more attractive wealth of vegetation. From
the water’s edge to a height of fourteen or fifteen hundred feet, the
slopes, and even the smaller islands, are covered with an unbroken
mantle of beautiful, dense, green forest that presents an astonishing
contrast, in this inhospitable region, to the bleak, gray rocks and
bluish-tinted ice sheets above and the pure white snow caps on the
summits beyond.
In the country from Valdivia south to Smyth Channel, many of the trees,
particularly in the ravines and sheltered places, are tall and shapely
and their trunks and lower branches are incrusted with mosses and
entwined with flowering creepers and vines, many with a sort of
mistletoe that has clusters of dark-red blossoms; one of the creepers,
called angel’s hair, is delicate and filmy and hangs from the branches
like threads of lace, and there is an undergrowth of ferns and shrubs
and bamboo. These last often shoot up as far as the tops of the trees
and seem to mat them together so that they form arbors over the pathways
between. Farther south and in the region of the Strait, these woods lose
something of their mysterious beauty; here they are composed principally
of antarctic beech, gnarled and bent by the winds, and the thicketlike
undergrowth is somber and forbidding.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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