South America -- Description and travel; South America -- History
In preference to the more direct German line, the visitor should by all
means make the trip northward by a “west coaster,” that cross between an
Atlantic liner and a river steamboat which meanders leisurely in and out
among the Pacific ports and carries a conglomerate of all types of the
genus Latin American, and of all the products of his infinitely varied
soil. As one writer whimsically describes it, it has all the
characteristics of a house-boat, freight carrier, village gossip and
market gardener. With no cause to fear rain or rough weather, the ocean
here being truly “pacific,” the builders of these boats have placed all
cabins on deck, and even thus they seem superfluous except as lockers
for luggage, for the heat keeps one always in the open.
Here the newcomer to these shores talks politics or crops or railroad
concessions with the substantial _hacendado_ returning to his
plantation, or haggles interminably with the _cholo_ woman who offers
for sale woven hats of _jipi-japa_ straw (known commercially as
Panamas), little golden images unearthed from Inca ruins, or imitations
of them fashioned from vegetable ivory, great white-pulped, juicy
pineapples, leather belts of exquisite workmanship, brilliantly colored
ponchos, and the inevitable convent embroideries and laces. These women
spend much of their lives on board, traveling back and forth between
Valparaiso and Panamá, and in their allotted corners sell everything
from candied sugar cane wrapped in banana leaves to emerald necklaces.
It is said that one old woman on a recent trip actually had hoisted
aboard a live cow, which she would have sold piecemeal, in steaks, if
the long-suffering captain had not protested that his ship was no
slaughter-house.
And, besides the surfeit of “local color” one gets on the ship, the
traveler has an excellent opportunity to study that vague institution
known as international trade, at a familiarly close range. The terms
“exports” and “imports” mean little to him until he sees huge cases of
sewing machines marked “Hamburg—fragile,” or sections of milling
machinery from Chicago, or something of the sort, swung over the side
into the lighters, and later sees other lighters towed from shore laden
with curious little bales of Panama hats, or cotton, or casks of rum,
and all the, to him, exotic products of a different world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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