South America -- Description and travel; South America -- History
Peru’s railroads cover but fifteen hundred miles, but they are pushing
forward rapidly to fill in its section of the long-promised Pan-American
railway from Panamá to Patagonia. One of these, the Oroya road, which
ascends from Lima up into the plateau country, is altogether the most
impressive piece of railroad engineering in the world; it is not only
the highest, but there is no other that lifts its wondering passengers
to any such altitude in such an appallingly short space of time. For an
hour or more the train winds through a wide, irrigated valley, green and
prosperous-looking with plantations of sugar cane. Farther up, the
valley narrows and is closed in by naked rocks. Twenty-five miles from
Lima a station is reached twenty-eight hundred feet above the sea;
twelve miles farther the altitude is five thousand feet. At Casapalca,
the town of smelters, thirteen thousand six hundred feet is achieved by
the puffing, vibrating engine; at fourteen thousand feet the chimneys of
Casapalca’s smelters look like pins stuck in the green carpet below, and
finally, the passenger descends from the train, very uncertain on his
feet, at the unprecedented height of 15,665 feet, and stands on the
cold, wind-swept Andean roof. On every hand are peaks and hoods of snow.
Beyond the station the rechristened Mount Meiggs rises another two
thousand feet, as a monument to the indefatigable Yankee promoter and
soldier of fortune who conceived and built the road—Henry Meiggs.
Turning to the west, one looks back over the long, infinitely varied
descent; to the east lie the plateaus and the Andean treasure land. The
northern branch of the road continues along almost equally high levels,
past the historic plains of Junín on which Bolívar dealt his crushing
blow to the viceroy’s army in 1824, to Cerro de Pasco, where the
American mining syndicate is preparing to get rich.
II
A still more extensive railroad and one which gives the traveler a more
varied view of the Andes, is that ascending from the port city of
Mollendo, near the Chilean frontier. This line is the outlet for much of
the commerce of Bolivia, and was built by the same gifted Yankee who
fathered the Oroya road. Leaving Mollendo, the train speeds over the
desert for a few miles and then begins its steady climb upward. All day
it labors along the tortuous ascent through echoing walls of rock, bare,
repellent, and awe-inspiring in their cold majesty. Suddenly, around a
jagged precipice, the passengers look down upon a lovely valley—an oasis
of green. In its midst lies the quaint, picturesque old city of
Arequipa, which Pizarro, who founded it, was wont to call _la villa
hermosa_—the city beautiful. Seen from the heights, it somewhat
resembles La Paz, a group of low, white and blue walled, red roofed
buildings, arranged in squares, with a large plaza in the center, the
general flatness relieved by many church spires, and its spacious patios
a mass of foliage and trees.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account