South America -- Description and travel; South America -- History
It follows naturally that, as in Ecuador, the diversity in altitude that
accounts for this varied productiveness gives to Colombia—a wholly
tropical country—a range in climate that makes it one of the world’s
most attractive abiding places. Von Humboldt is quoted as saying that
the traveler here needs but “a thermometer and a mule to find any
climate desired within the compass of a few leagues.” When one tires of
the torrid heat of the valleys, the frozen sierras are just in sight.
When the perpetual spring of the table-land palls upon him, he can by a
few hours’ ride find autumn on the steppes above or summer in the plains
below. If he is a sportsman, he can find his game among many species of
the fauna of three zones: the jaguar, sloth, armadillo, tapir, the red
deer, black bear, and panther, and in the jungles of the Amazon region,
the tiger.
The overland route to Bogotá from Quito lies over a well-built highway
which, in the not distant future, will be paralleled by Colombia’s and
Ecuador’s contributions to the long-heralded Pan-American railway from
New York to Buenos Aires. Up to the present time Colombia has had but
six hundred miles of railways: the little system radiating from the
capital and connecting it with the Magdalena River, and, through that
natural highway, with the Caribbean ports, and the short lines that run
inland from the ports of both oceans; for Colombia is the only country
in South America that borders on both the Pacific and the Atlantic.
The traveler who enters the country in the saddle over the route
mentioned will profit more than by sailing up the Pacific coast from
Guayaquil and entering through the port of Buenaventura. The journey
along the lofty heights and down through the lovely green valleys will
not only give him much more of the inspiring Andean scenery, but will
make him acquainted with the country and village life which he could not
see at close range otherwise. But he will have to sacrifice many
familiar comforts on the altar of education. The _posadas_, or village
inns, at which he must stop are mere adobe huts with dirt floors, and
none but rawhide cots are offered for his rest. The few dishes served at
these primitive hostelries are plentifully seasoned with garlic,
saffron, and _morones_, or red peppers. The early hours of the journey
will bring the traveler in conflict also with the all-pervading
philosophy of _mañana_ (to-morrow), and his progress will be slow.
However, the unfailing good humor of his muleteer will do much to dispel
his exasperation at delays, and he will find himself more and more
repaid for his discomforts by the splendor and beauty and strangeness
through which he is making his way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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