South America -- Description and travel; South America -- History
Its location is delightfully picturesque, the upper section built on
bluffs several hundred feet above the level of the bay, the lower along
the shore. In this lower section, behind the docks, are the warehouses
and factories, the arsenal and a great lighthouse, and, aside from
defensive works of modern type, the old fortifications which the Dutch
had made the most formidable in America in colonial times; and on the
upper terraces are the Governor’s palace and public buildings, one of
the best public libraries in the country, the cathedral and convents,
the municipal theater, and the better class of residences and amusement
resorts. In general, the streets are much like those of Belém and
Pernambuco: paved with cobblestones and narrow in the shopping and café
districts, with long white rows of two and three story houses built
closely together, many with balconies above the show windows; and the
parks are as beautiful and the residences out along the wide, palm-lined
driveways are fully as sumptuous.
But, interesting as are all these places, their attractions are fairly
dimmed by Rio’s, and especially by her gorgeous bay. From the Guianas to
its southernmost boundaries, in fact, Brazil is one grand series of
prismatic forests, majestic rivers and cascades, immense rolling plains
and mountains—a panorama that is matchless anywhere in the world—but, if
I were asked to point out some one feature that was preëminent among
them all, I should not hesitate to select that bay. The bay of Naples,
the Golden Horn of Constantinople, all those wonderful aspects by the
mention of which writers have sought to impress those who have not seen
the Rio bay with its grandeur and beauty, can but suffer by the
comparison. “Extravagant language must be used in writing of it,” says
Burton Holmes, “for there all is extravagance—extravagance of color,
extravagance of form.” It is so incomparably sublime, says the Rev.
James C. Fletcher, the author of one of the most noted of the
descriptions—though no pen or brush could possibly do it justice—that
“the first entrance must mark an era in the life of any one. I have seen
the rude and ignorant Russian sailor, the immoral and unreflecting
Australian adventurer, as well as the refined and cultivated European
gentleman, stand silent on the deck, lost in admiration of the gigantic
avenue of mountains and palm-covered isles, which, like the granite
pillars of the Temple of Luxor, form a fitting colonnade to the portal
of the finest bay in the world.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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