Through the first Antarctic night, 1898-1899 : $b a narrative of the voyage of the "Belgica" among newly discovered lands and over an unknown sea about the south poleCook, Frederick Albert
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Through the first Antarctic night, 1898-1899 : $b a narrative of the voyage of the "Belgica" among newly discovered lands and over an unknown sea about the south pole
Cook, Frederick Albert
Antarctica; Antarctica -- Discovery and exploration -- Belgian; Belgica (Ship); Voyages and travels
With this preliminary understanding of the causes for the metropolitan
life of the Strait of Magellan, one is not so greatly surprised at
the first glimpse of the strange street scenes. We naturally looked
for some marks of nationality in the people we first met, but quite
in vain. Spanish is the language of the place. At one street corner,
however, one hears English; at another, German; at another, French;
and at still another, Italian. Negroes are few, but Indians are quite
numerous. One of our new acquaintances took us about town. He was, I
believe, a German by birth, but he talked with us in French, and took
us to a bar where he talked English; to a magazine where he addressed
the clerk in Spanish; to the church where he addressed the Holy Father
in Italian; and others told us that he could speak the various Indian
tongues, and was not puzzled with Latin and Greek, though he never had
had a college education.
The streets are ordinary country roads, in very bad order. They are
most remarkable for their number of stagnant pools of water, and the
various heaps of ashes and debris. Stumps of trees, broken carts, tin
cans, packing boxes, dead dogs, and a host of other refuse serve to
ornament and pave the sandy bottoms. Scattered about these, and usually
not far from a bar, are groups of visitors in various attitudes. The
most numerous of these are the cowboys or gauchos, as they are called
some on horses with ponchos over their shoulders, and wearing huge,
broad-brimmed hats, and loose pantaloons; others steeped in alcohol
with a soft bed of sand for a couch, and a boulder for a pillow; and
still others, in new suits, moving about like a girl in an Easter
bonnet to display their annual acquirements. But the gauchos move in
groups to themselves, discussing sheep and squaws and the hunting
sports of the pampas. In another group one finds quite different types
of humanity. Here are the gold-diggers, men of extremes, either without
a copper or with a fat bag of gold, according to the luck of their past
season. Unlike the cowboy, who is usually in neat attire, the miner is
careless of dress, and, rich or poor, is rigged in rags; but he is a
bit of a lion in his way. If he has found rich deposits, his pocket
is the ambition of the local tradesmen, and his information is eagerly
sought by all the loafers of the town. He discusses pay-diggings,
nuggets, methods of washing gold, the relative qualities of food and
drinks, and his last feminine acquaintances in Sandy Point. And then
there are the groups of sailors, soldiers, and of tramps. The citizens
of the town one rarely sees; they are always occupied within doors, for
everybody who is anybody in Punta Arenas keeps a store and owns one or
more sheep-farms.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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