Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
At eleven we put up at Ub, and I had plenty of time to amuse myself.
Sitting on the bench by the inn door, I made folded paper toys for the
children, and soon had a semicircle of tiny boys round me. A little
gipsy girl looked on at them with superb contempt. As soon as they had
cleared off, she sailed up and seated herself by my side with the air of
one conferring a favour. She was a slip of a thing, nine years old, but
with the self-possession of fifty. "I am ciganka" (gipsy), she said.
"Where do you come from?" I told her, but she had never heard of my
native land. She was brown as a berry, and had on nothing but a dirty
old scarlet frock which had shed its fastenings. She dangled her skinny
brown legs and fixed me with her sparkling black eyes; her hair, she
told me, was far superior to my own; in proof of her words, she took off
the yellow handkerchief in which her head was swathed and offered for
inspection a small and most filthy plait of coal-black hair in which
were fastened three or four coins, which she pointed out with glee. It
was, in fact, the savings bank in which she had just opened an account.
I at once produced a nickel 2d., which she accepted with much
satisfaction. A man on the next bench threw down a cigarette end, and
she pounced on it like a cat on a mouse. When she returned with it, she
looked cautiously round to be sure that no one else could see, and then,
sheltered by my skirts, she extracted from inside her frock a
handkerchief tied up in a bundle, and displayed with great pride a mass
of cigarette ends and other valuables. I duly admired; the new one was
added to the collection, and it was all stowed away again with great
precaution. Then she tried to look unconscious. Muttering something I
didn't understand, she peeped in at the inn door. The floor was richly
strewn with cigarette ends. She slipped in and crept round the room
swiftly and silently. The lady of the inn and most of the other people
saw her quite well; I don't think they had the least objection to her
clearing the floor of rubbish. She preferred, however, to consider it as
a dangerous raiding expedition, dashed from cover to cover quite
scientifically, collecting as she went, and sneaked out again with her
spoils, the spirit of all her horse-stealing ancestors twinkling in her
eyes. She displayed her loot to me, for she took it for granted that I
was a sympathetic soul; and as there is reason to believe that one of my
forefathers sold horses in Queen Elizabeth's reign, it is possible that
we may have had ideas in common.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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