Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
As we came out of the church, up came a second monk, a young man with a
dark flat face, coal-black hair, and a strange Eastern cast of
countenance that seemed oddly familiar to me. He greeted me at once, and
began a long tale of how he had met me at Ostrog, in Montenegro, the
year before. The other monk and my Servian companion cried, naturally
astounded, "This gentleman says that he knows you!" It turned out that
he was a pupil of the monk at the chapel of Our Lady among the rocks,
by Podgoritza. "You too," said he to me, "know him"; and he spoke of him
with great affection and reverence, and accounted him holy. I was deeply
interested to find that the gentle ascetic of the Albanian frontier was
revered in Central Servia. That I, a Londoner, should be the one to
bring news of him seemed to me not a little strange. But to the black
monk there was nothing strange about it. "He said that God guided your
footsteps," said he, and he added, as an explanation to the others, "She
is the friend of the Montenegrins." After this, I had to go and take jam
and water and coffee with the Archimandrite, and tell how I had been to
the little chapel that very Easter and had received the hermit's Easter
greeting. I said good-bye to the kindly, simple-minded monastery, and I
returned to the worldly suspicions of civic life.
The Nachelnik never appeared in the afternoon, and I determined not to
say anything about it. But when my friend and champion reappeared, he
asked me point-blank as to how the Nachelnik had behaved on the
afternoon's drive, and there was no help for it. He flew off in a rage
to attack the Nachelnik. He came back even more angry. The Nachelnik had
said that he had decided he would not be mixed up with the affair and
had then turned the tables on him and questioned him as to all I had
done in the morning. "What did she do? Where did she go? With whom did
she speak? What did she draw? Did she talk politics, and what did you
tell her?" "I told her," he said furiously, "that the Servians are fools
and that it is a waste of her time to come and see them. And she shall
stay if she wishes, and draw anything she likes!" He begged me not to
think that they were all so ignorant. The Nachelnik of Kraljevo was in
fact the only official in Servia who was unpleasant to me, and even he
succumbed more or less to a British passport.
I left Kraljevo pleasantly enough, for the last person I saw as I
rattled out of the town was the young black monk smiling and waving his
hand.
CHAPTER XVI
KRUSHEVATZ
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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